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Agreed. Not in between. Grinding in there makes stress concentration areas. Even forging seams have strength.

If it’s just light rust a hone might do. Big thing to look for is the ridge about 1/2” down the bore. Can you stop your fingernails on it? That’s an indicator for how out of round the cyls are.

Yes, connecting rods can stay the same. Pistons needs to match bores closely, pretty much anything beyond a hone and you need new piston and rings.

Any chance the bushing under the cam gear is shot and the hex stuffed itself into the pump, pushing the 4 lobe gear into the cover? It’s not made for that force. I don’t see how it could be connected to the oil change but certainly a possible cause.

Gotta say it’s pretty cool reading about the race results of you and others. It’s not the path I’ve chosen for my old B-body, being mostly stock, but it’s a lot of fun to see what can be wrung from one if desired.

I’m quite sure the groove is fine for the rockers. Pressure in the oiling system is directly related to how fast it can leak out. Just like loose bearings or fully grooved mains require more pump or more viscosity, this mod may too.

I’d probably have it drilled with carbide or conventional EDM. Who wants to mess around with a restrictor? Of course a replacement cam would be best.

...and that's why those all come from the factory with the ends peened over... Super lucky it wasn't worse

The pistons won't come out the bottom, up is the only way to go.

Not rare to have none. Note that snow tires have no rating either.

Ouch. We want pictures of the autopsy though. Morbid curiosity.

Depends on the kind of racing too. I’d argue that weight matters less than the polar moment of inertia and residual drag.

I'd take the housing out and level one perch then check the other with the level to confirm they are coplanar. Didn't use the upper front perch hole on one and the lower on the other right?

A friend of mine owns a dairy farm and they have a calibrated truck scale. When I’m there I drive whatever vehicle up on it (then subtract drivers and add for partial tank to get proper curb weight). My ‘64 Sport Fury was 3620 last summer. I used to go to the recycling place back in the 80’s to...

Similar deal in Connecticut regarding antique plates. No inspections. Could run anything. No vanity antique plates that I know of but you can use “original year” plates.

Do they let you use original year plates there? I have about the same car and the same year plates, like the look much more than some antique plate.

Love this combo. Had very similar in a ‘70 Coronet R/T but with a Holley 830 annular discharge and a CH4B. Auto or 4-speed? Mine was a 4-speed.

Sounds promising. Could be a hone, some rings, cleaning and measuring away from a short block. Depends on your priorities and what you want out of it. If money is no object you can just go build whatever you want or if every drop of power is essential then go with the 440. For all the 413...

413 sounds better. Looks balanced. Is there a ring ridge? If not, or just little, you could hone and go for it with new rings. I’d use the 906 heads with the crane valve gear. Compression looks evil, I’d use thick head gaskets and a big cam or it’ll knock Badly.