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Generally the advice above is consistent and pretty good. The tracking you describe should improve with some positive caster. I wouldn’t go nuts, 3 degrees should be fine.
Toe in on the old cars is usually measured in inches, here it’s in degrees. If we take both and add them together we’re at...
I’m not trying to give you a hard time. Just pointing out how to know for sure. I remember gutting a Canadian ‘69 charger R/T, 440 4-speed, 4.10 Dana, red with black stripe. Rot was absolutely incomprehensible. Today someone might try to repair it, back then the sheet metal wasn’t available but...
Original V code cars, auto or 4-speed all had torque boxes. 50 years is a long time. Many a body-transplant has been done. If you REALLY need to know, strip the paint or look for welds a few inches away from the body stamping locations. Someone doing this carefully will transplant those as...
Remember that the skirted ‘63 wheelwell and the lowered rear end make it tough to actually get the wheels on. Gotta jack the body and let the axle hang so you can get the wheel around the brakes. The wider section tires make this a bit more difficult. No floor jack under the pumpkin for this.
Not commonly known, Holley made a set of carbs for the six pack with side floats and metering blocks so you could change the jets. Best part was all were pumpers, no vacuum secondaries here. I set one up for a friend in a sixpak Bee, absolutely stunning throttle response. I don’t think they made...
I've used the king bearings. Perfectly good, nice quality. They make a couple different kinds, Tri metal etc. pick what you need. If the engine was bored and built before the bores might be nicely in spec but no longer perfect. Given that situation I’d use cast iron rings. If it was a fresh bore...