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I'd be interested. There's never too many ideas for dealing with this issue. And a thread detailing everything done to resolve the issue would be even better.

What I do when the car has sat for more than a couple days is this: 1. Crank the engine for a few seconds (3-4) 2. Wait a couple seconds 3. Crank again few seconds 4. Wait a couple seconds 5. Press the gas peddle all the way down then release 6. Crank again 7. If nothing, repeat steps 4 and 5...

I completely forgot about this thread. I ended up getting the correct spring that is orange like was stated in post #8. The one I had was from a swap meet that was tagged for a six pack. It WAS NOT the correct spring. Ordered the correct one and everything worked as it should. Added a small...

It could be possible that the gasket is getting squeezed just enough to push out allowing it touch the blades. As pnora said above, swap the front carb to the rear, or swap the gaskets around between the 3.

Check the gasket against the bottom of the carb to make sure the blades (I really don't know what those are called) on the throttle shaft aren't catching on it.

No offense taken. Sometimes the obvious get overlooked. Everything seems fine when car is not running. No binding. The linkages, I believe, are set correctly. Everything closed when let go. And it felt smooth and crisp. I got a new spring today. It feels better pressing the pedal. It has more...

They are new.

With the car off everything moved like it was supposed to. Even manually opening the outboards, it would snap back. When I would drive it, the only time it wouldn't snap back was when the outboards would first open. If they have been open for at least a second they come back like normal. That...

I'm pretty sure it's a spring issue. The other springs were softer and pedal was easy to press. It pulled the throttle back to idle but couldn't tell how well it would with the outboards opening until I drove it to open them up driving. Now it's hard to press with this spring. I've got the wrong...

That would explain why I had to redo my center carb baseplate as the shaft hole was misshapen creating a vacuum leak.

Thank you for this info. I will be listing a WTB ad.

This yellow spring is supposed to be the spring for a six pack. It's just really tight. Wasn't sure if it was stiff because it's new.

How do you determine what size throttle return spring? 440 six barrel. I'm trying to figure out what throttle return spring(s) I need to use. I had a purple spring and a small silver one from a universal kit. Had went for a drive, peddle felt firm and seemed to be right. When I hit 2nd gear...

Sorry. Yes it's a six pack. No, they are not original. I have tried to do a rebuild a couple times. The plates on the outboards have been drilled out. One of the baseplates needs machined as the ?throttle shaft? that goes through is wallored out and causes a leak. I figured that I'd be better...

I have got to get this car going this year. Things are smoothing out financially and I have sold some things to address the carb issues I've had. So here is the question... do I send the carbs to ProMax to get repaired and gone through or buy new ones? I'm leaning towards sending them in...

I've done that before. Such a pain in the ***.

I'm not an expert, but you should be fine. If anything you might need to tweak the tune to run on the 100.

Just remember, if you fix it, something else WILL mess up. Leave ONE thing messed up and everything else will be fine. Hahahaha

Might need to change springs in the vacuum pods. Could be end carb jets are incorrect size. Trying to set up modified carbs is an absolute headache. I was (am) a complete novice to carbeuraters even though I've read an ungodly amount the past couple years. Modified carbs dyno'd on their engine...

My vote goes to float getting stuck. Might be able to tap on the side or stick small screwdriver through sight hole and check for movement in the float.