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I don’t know what carburetor you have. Check online for the idle mixture screw. The CRC stuff is supposed to clean catalytic converters and I’m not sure if it works.

I just read an emissions tip that said high CO means it’s running rich. Is your California test at idle? On a treadmill? The article mentions a dirty air filter & another poster’s idea about leaning out the idle mixture screws (more air, less fuel) would help

Look for a "dolphin" fuel gauge adjuster. I just installed one, but haven't calibrated it yet, so I can't swear it works. It's small and has buttons inside & a screw adjuster.

Maybe this one? You should double check...

The CH4B is the only aftermarket intake that I know of that will fit, but these guys may be correct about other intakes (?). As far as the air cleaner - it won’t help you a with a 440 engine.

That I’m not sure about

Powder coating that looks like chrome tarnishes the second you touch it. If you put clear over it, it doesn’t look like chrome anymore.

Yes

318's have smaller intake ports than 340's or 360's (fyi). I believe (?) some very late-model 318's came with 4-barrels, so those intake manifolds have the smaller intake ports. My suggestion is find some 360 2-barrel heads (identical to 4-barrel heads, 340 or 360). 600-650 cfm is about right...

Super dumb question...is this a "numbers car" which makes you want to keep the original fuel pump housing? $28 Autozone https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/p/delphi-fuel-pump-amf0056/463073_0_0?searchText=fuel+pump

I’ve had horrible luck with aftermarket sending units

Asking about carburetors always gets a TON of different responses. Here are the key issues to minimize the number of "adapters" & "modifications" you have to do and end up with a good result: 1. What carburetor "style" will your intake accept? I think you have a "straight bore" intake manifold...

Original carb list https://www.mopar1.us/moparcarblist.html I would suggest you pick a carburetor about 600-650 cfm, Holley vacuum secondary or Edelbrock (used to be Carter). Original carb (or a close year) makes installation easier (but it ain't hard anyway)

Really? Yes, a 440. I've read so much about choke issues without a heat crossover. My choke works fine too with iron intake & iron heads. I'm just a littler nervous about it working with aluminum heads (without cross over) & aluminum intake

I'm piecing together a new motor & I have a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads with no heat crossover. I street drive this car and want the choke to work (fyi-my factory choke works fine with iron heads). The center six pack carbs don't have the right holes to install a manual choke (what I'd...

I suppose you could, but I would prefer the vent lines to be sure the gas tank doesn't collapse

As I understand it, in general, denser air = more power. You could be right about it being closer to perfect air/fuel mixture in cooler air though. With no technology to work with, I think you're down to reading your plugs and setting idle mixture by "maximum rpm at idle". I'm not sure about...

lewtot is correct. The idle is increased by the metal tab sitting "up on the steps" of the fast idle cam

drill & tap that hole and don't be afraid to use metric or whatever is just barely larger. OR, you can put some epoxy in the hole...pack it in there good... and drill/tap that epoxy. Just make sure to tighten that epoxy hole gently. OR a heli-coil