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Maybe the enine hasn't run enough to get the gas pumped up to the carb yet. Do like kern dog says, fill the float bowl and get it going. What carb do you have? Show a photo and we can tell you where to fill the carb.

Read here Lithium battery goes up in smoke at Gainesville. - CLASS RACER FORUM And a correction by the person with the battery fire My Lithium battery fire - CLASS RACER FORUM

Downside is swiping the battery

Why change it? What is the reasoning? Why not leave it.

Then don't ground it, easy fix!

Should go past full when full, not stop there at full, again a normal thing. The E mark is the one to have correct. So take out the sender and bend the arm to get that right. I bought a car once the guy bent the arm so full was right on the F mark, but you could drive for 50+ miles on E...

Sounds about normal. My 60's/70's mopars do the same thing. When it's not running it has whatever your battery voltage is. New batt is 12.6-12.8. Older batt 12.1-12.4. Now start the car and it could be anywhere from low 13 volts to mid 15 volts depending on your parts and the RPM. That's...

One of the resistors on the back gets hot during normal operation. If it has something on it than it may smoke until it's burned off. Just went through this on a car that has sat for years. Regulator works fine and smoke stopped. Or the whole thing may melt down. I"m done with those solid...

Yes for high RPM operation, maximum performance engines, the orange monster, etc.

Cycle the switch a few times. Make sure it's not hanging up on the rug or the grommet. Those switches get old, contacts get old, they jam up, get rust & corrosion inside.

Never were black on any 1970 mopar. B-bodies they were a satin finish. They were full chrome in 1970 C-bodies.

Yes the lime green one, but none of the headlight mounting hardware was body color, it was put on after paint. Including one bolt on each side that goes through the top support that is painted body color.

The bolts have a larger spinning washer attached to it.

LOL that's the place that can't help me out. A nice guy to talk to. Reconing a speaker went fine.

Where had you sent a factory radio for service/repair that you had a good experience with? I'm talking repairing to stock, not any Bluetooth or that modern stuff. Specifically 1967 stock am/fm and 68-70 8 track? Sure miss Wards radio service. We were lucky to have them.

They made good stuff in the 80's, not like the china junk today.

Try this

All true, I was trying to point out that BOTH cables need to flow as many amps as the starter needs to operate, not just the positive side.

The starter takes as many amps as it takes to turn the engine. Approx 200-250. actual number not important. Now BOTH battery cables need to flow that many amps for the starter to function. Due to bad connection (resistance) that negative cable couldn't flow enough amps to make the starter...

Better fix that speedo before it breaks, and it will soon. remove cable from speedo, pullout center with needle nose, clean it with brake clean and a lint free towel, lube it, reinstall in housing, put a small amount of lube on back of speedo end, put cable Back on. do not use white lithium in...