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Neither one says textured. Not all grilles have textured paint. A 1970 RR grill is textured.

Dark and light. Both are textured.

What car are you putting it in? what crankshaft is in the 413? Is it for a 727, or a cast iron TF? They are different if you didn't know.

numbers here

Ok look at this, now you have seen one. From what I understand is that 1968 b bodies had dodge or plymouth on the face, and the 1969’s all said Chrysler on the face. Canada? Not an expert, word on the street is the chryco parts are over the counter north of the border, not from the factory...

Looks great, wanna do mine next? Lol, a bit far away.

You folks are doing a good job on the car. Have fun with it!

Get the right offset when and fill up the stock wheel tub. it’s a big job getting those tubs in there.

Brief story on seat broadcast sheets. the seat shop get the sheet and that tells them what to build for the day So they will have the correct seat for the cars being built, Well the workers do not look for the sheets to get the VIN right, they just put the correct color and pattern seats in...

how many found a sheet in a 66-70 b-body taped behind the glovebox? I’m at zero so far. It seems like an E body thing 67’s commonly in Bucket seat, back seat and under carpet.

1970 B-body reverse lamp wires come through in the wiper motor plug.

Is that strange that it ended up being just O-Ring as stated is a few threads? And going with that I strongly reccommend you don’t not hit that reservoir with a hammer. You are not driving nails or or studs into a tight fit. You are getting a tin can off a seal. You bend that metal and it‘s...

Hammer? Bad idea. Don’t hit the reservoir, it’s a basically a tin can. Pry on it in several places. Needs to come off evenly also.

Use PS fluid, no stop leak and no synthetic. ATF doesn’t do them any good over time. and the fill level is the bottom of the neck, I like it a bit lower than that, but no seeing the unit inside. many fill them to the top of the neck and wonder why it leaks so bad. Really. Had several people...

If it works good other wise don’t mess with it. They seem to keep working if not run low on fluid. And use power steering fluid, not ATF. there is a flat gasket inside on the back where the bolts thread in and then the big o ring. I followed this advice on my car and it’s dry and working...

Don’t get a new one, it won’t fit Right clean yours off good. It probably is just leaking at the o ring where the tin can goes on. Easy to fis, but messy. dont loose that cap, hard to find a replacement.

Welcome! Don’t do it quite like that. Remove all the linkage and the nut in the fender well, then lift the tube upward and the threaded stub will come out of the frame bracket, then pull the tube towards the drivers side to remove it from the ball on the side of the bellhousing. you will play...

I’d drive it, but not fix it up. Needs too much metal work. Look at the roof and the whole rear of the car. Find a survivor for 12-15K and buy that.

You may not need a Re-core. How much have you driven the car? Did it cool fine?

Find a radiator shop and get the leak repaired correctly by soldering it. You couldn’t pay me to use that in my classic car. Potential problems coming your way.