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Better off with 2 1/4 tailpipes unless you are at high RPM all the time with a big cam and heads that will flow high cfm

Accurate exhaust makes nice systems. I had a TTI on a car I bought, didn't like it. Complete B Body Exhaust Systems

No, because after a few heat and cool cycles you need to snug up the bolts again.

2 1/2" pipe fits fine. But, after your exhaust guy bends it then the end of the pipe needs to be cut a Bit shorter off before it's welded to the flange, or it's too long and hits the torsion bar. This will raise the bend above the bar. Some people pound a relief into the pipe there which will...

Your exhaust is a cobbled up mess. See the hangar? That is the clamp for the tailpipe to muffler also. The muffler should be in that hanger where it is now. The mufflers you had on there are way to short, and the tailpipes go to far forward because of it. The correct muffler you now have...

How about if we cut to the chase. MEASURE your mufflers! In inches if possible please, but we can convert cm for you. The body length/width/height, and then the length of the muffler and pipes. Then we can stop the guessing here.

It makes no difference in performance. I was racing a consistent 14.0 440 and removing that did zero for ET and mph.

What? are those going to clear the cross member?

Remove the rust and leave them bare, that’s what they looked like when new. They were not painted cast iron gray from the factory.

It’s a 318 poly: they don’t offer anything

Nobody makes prebent pipes for a 318 poly, a friend was looking last fall. 66 Dodge B-body. Looks like you’ll need an exhaust shop for headpipes. Yes you could buy present tailpipes.

Accurate exhaust in Oregon ;)

Those hangars are pulling at an angle, they will fail early, they need to pul straight up and down.

Someone can use that. Not all the cars are show cars. I would be interested, but the distance and out of country would end that idea.

I’m no expert but those are 1963 300 J exhaust. the brackets are reproduced. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324758884901?hash=item4b9d235225:g:El8AAOSw3q1hHlNh

Maybe not according to you, but what I do know is: *how to assemble things that don’t leak *that you don’t use thick header gaskets on cast iron *what a pain it is to R&R a street hemi Ex manifold *the more you mill something the more it wants to warp and crack. And if the last guy(s) followed...

I used Fel-Pro MS 90049 gaskets and they have been fine for 2 years. Installed them dry, nothing on them. New hardware, everything clean, cleaned the threads in the bolt holes. Check the bolts after a couple heat cycles. Been just fine with zero leaks. I would do it this way again.

I know the factory did not use gaskets on Big blocks. Had many original cars and also seen many. I have no experience on untouched hemi engines to know if the factory used gaskets or not. I always use exhaust manifold gaskets when I have them off. I’ve done dozens of cars this way with no...

I wouldn’t use those remflex gaskets on stock cast iron manifolds. Fel-pro makes nice gaskets for this. I used new Reproduction bolts and washers. Been fine and I rechecked the bolts, not loose. About 800 miles on it. Been hot and cold hundreds of times. Nice and quiet, no leaks.

Doubt they have one for a 60 year old car. Find an older exhaust shop and there is a set of cards for every car that tells them how to make the pipes. Or any shop that does custom exhaust can fit a 2” in there easy enough. But you,cannot install it yourself so it’s more money.