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Bill this time I used the best Dura Last I could find and used the premium Wes Kar kit,

You're going to love this!!! Never happens to me!!! Things are always hard right!!!!! Well not this time, BOTH bulbs were burned out!!! I mean I took out my license to make sure I was still me HA HA Ron

Ha ha so if R413 agrees I need to get the test light out!!! Ron

I got to thinking, am I over-thinking this?? If I leave the 1 brown wire going down to the trans for the neutral safety with the 3 wire connector on it like the previous owner did than I just need to check fuses and connections to see why the back-up lights don't work since they are activated...

R413 you are a wealth of information!!! I had a feeling it was like that so I'll have to tap off there and run to two empty spots on the bulkhead to still do what I had intended with that harness I posted above. All good I had to take the console out to either file the second gear de tent or...

My 66 has a 70's style trans with the 3 pin neutral safety switch. Bucket seat console car if that matters. Can I get power for the back up lights at the bulkhead like in say a 1969 car?? If so I can buy the early 1968 style reproduction harness and plug the two bare leads into the bulkhead...

I've used a small block battery cable in B-Body application with my TTI's and 512 because the small block cable is about 6" longer and cleared everything. ***note these were 1 7/8" TTI's in case that matters in a 72 B-Body. Ron

My experience has been Pertronix always screwed up my factory tach. There tech line had me make a fix with a couple of resistors but that didn't work for me. I always had to put a new electronic board into the tach's to correct the mismatch. Not 100% sure about the Mopar Electronic ignition...