Search results for query: *

Nitriding is only one part of the issue, taper on the lobe and proper radius on the lifter bottom is the rest of it. Yes a cam needs proper oil and break-in but if the cam and lifters are not properly machined it will still go flat. I watched a Youtube video of a guy and he rotates the cam by...

Nitriding is only one part of the issue, taper on the lobe and proper radius on the lifter bottom is the rest of it. Yes a cam needs proper oil and break-in but if the cam and lifters are not properly machined it will still go flat. I watched a Youtube video of a guy and he rotates the cam by...

Throttle pressure has to overcome governor pressure to upshift or down shift. The relationship you want is at idle the throttle lever is just touching the throttle valve, and at WOT the throttle valve should just be fully depressed. You have to have this mechanical relationship for the trans...

the guys talking about the converter balance have you in the right direction, the only thing I can add is make sure the kickdown linkage is working properly. 440's are a little wider and taller, will make the linkage adjustment off. Kickdown rod should just be bottomed out at WOT, and just...

I don't mean this in a bad way, but the day of the flat tappet camshaft is over. Just like a lot of other things from my youth are over. I have been building engines since 1972, my first was a small block chevy that the oil pickup fell off of. The OEM stopped making flat tappet camshafts in...

Governor pressure has to overcome throttle pressure for a shift to occur. Look at the throttle linkage first and make sure it is not sticking, at idle the throttle lever on the transmission should be all the way forward and at wide open throttle it should be just against its stop. When the...

I agree, maybe timing too far advanced, I have had that happen on combo's

Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow all at the right time and it will run. Just a couple ideas, as mentioned the cranking compression is low. You can try a little light oil down the carb if you think the cylinder walls are washed. First when the dots are together on the timing gears that is number 6...

Accumulator Spring makes it shift softer, no spring shifts harder, put a solid spacer instead of a spring shifts really hard. air check the rear servo, just remove the valvebody and hit the hole with about 50 psi air. Watch the servo work and listen for leaks.

Drill a small hole in the edge of the thermostat to allow any trapped air to be removed before the thermostat opens. Also you can loosen the temp sender at cold idle, letting a little coolant and air out, and bleed the system that way.

My vote for the pennszoil as well, makes them shift smoother. Mopar used auto transfluid in the later 4 speed overdrive units anyway.

Buy a good engine program, I use performance trends, it will calculate really close your idle vacuum. When a customer asks me to build an engine many say I want a lope at idle but I want it to clear up as soon as I touch the throttle. I know idle vacuum of about 16 inches will do just that...

That looks pretty close, I would set it up with the shim you have, and of course check with gear marking compound when done.

The shim for pinion depth is usually to shim for machining tolerances in the housing, not the ring and pinion. 99% of the time if the original shim was correct it will be correct for the new gears. If you don't have access to a pinion depth gauge a .020 shim is the starting point for a 8 3/4...

The area you mention is the pin that holds the rear band, it is supposed to have an O-ring on it. Lot of guys myself included put a dab of silicone just to make sure it does not leak. To pull it completely out you will have to remove the valvebody to gain access to the band strut to line it up...

If a tapered bearing is adjusted properly there is no play. Tapered bearing require preload, hence no play.

Nothing wrong with green bearings, just remember they don't last as long as the OEM tapered bearings, but since most old muscle cars don't get driven a lot of miles not usually a problem. I personally like the tapered bearings, just because they can be adjusted, repacked with fresh grease, and...

Remember you will gain compression with the longer stroke, static compression is volume at TDC compared to BDC, so even if the piston is at same height because the piston in lower in the bore you will have mor compression. I strongly recommend getting a good engine program and play with your...

Not sure how much you know about how engines operate, but a good engine program can help you decide what combination of parts will get you to your HP goals. I use Performance Trends but others are out there. And you will be surprised how much those programs can teach you about how an engine...

I use performance trends on every engine I spec and build. I have a dyno in my shop and the program is very accurate, if you put accurate info into it. And for example it predicts cranking compression so if you don't know the compression you can do a compression test and manipulate the numbers...