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I made a call to John at Leed and asked him a few questions. The booster is good but the adjustable valve for the rear brakes was turned all the way out which means the flow of fluid to the rear brakes was reduced by 55%. I reattached the vacuum line to the booster and did the pedal drop test...

Other than the position of the pedal the car is hard to stop running or not….maybe I just need to throw out an anchor!

Doug, I replaced all the lines except the line that runs to the rear brakes inside the frame. Car is from the west coast and line is very good, all other lines and hoses are new. New disk brake conversion on the front, new drums and 90% shoes on the rear. Master is 1” or 1 1/16” bore mounted on...

Who are the booster rebuilders that people trust to do a good job at a reasonable price?

More brain cells die every day, pretty soon I’ll just be totally stupid.

Thanks for the input…front disks are operating properly, bleeders on the top. Rear drums are new and adjusted properly. All lines are new except one and fluid flows easily. Cam is just slightly larger than a 383 magnum cam so I don’t believe there is a problem there. Vacuum line is off the...

It’s on a 1964 Fury so I’m sure it’s a Midland booster.

The original master cylinder that came with the kit proved to be faulty. I returned it to Leed and they bench bled the replacement so it’s already been done. When I picked up the replacement master cylinder was full of fluid, and the outlets were capped.

1 1/16”, it’s the master cylinder supplied with the disk brake kit from Leed and designed to work with the factory booster.

Last year I converted my 1964 Fury to disk brakes. To do this I had to change from a single pot master cylinder to the new dual pot master cylinder and also changed the lines and distribution block to split the front and rear brakes. Everything has been installed and all bled but now I have to...

I’m going to go over everything today to see if I can find anything I missed. Rear drums are new but will make sure adjustments are ok as well as pushrod adjustment.

Conversion was designed to work with the original factory booster.

They are mustang hubs and rotors and are a Leed brake kit.

With the way it is now it won’t leave the garage. Trying to drive it the way it is would be suicide.

No it doesn’t

Good flow and pressure with a solid peddle.

Rear are drum and everything for the conversion is new except the booster which is factory. The conversion was made to be used with the factory booster.

Master cylinder was bench bled, and with the engine off the pedal feels excellent. Cam isn’t much hotter than a factory 383 magnum cam so I don’t think that would be the problem.

Check valve maybe?

I’m at wits end…….new disk brake conversion on the front, new rear end housing including heavy duty brakes. New lines and hoses front and rear including a new power brake master cylinder mounted on the factory 1964 booster. Bled the whole system and have a hard peddle with the engine off but as...