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Man this thread really blew up. Put 'em in from the bottom and save the brain damage.

Trigger much? It doesn't matter what one says these days. There will always be someone who is offended regardless of what is expressed. Life is tough, grow a backbone or get a helmet.

No.

Lots of opportunity on this thread to be a smart @ss. I'll let it pass. They all work. Go with what's best for you. I personally like the picker plate. Not a big fan of the redneck log chain method tearing up the fresh block paint.

****, I still have a cousin that uses brake cleaner as hand cleaner. 70 years old and still mean as a snake. Only had one liver transplant so far.

Is it a new engine? My resent stroker pegged at ~80 PSI on start up on the dyno but settled down to 50 or so after warm up. Still does after a few warm ups. My machinist / dyno guy said it is normal. Melling HV pump.

Coffee can. :thumbsup:

Length doesn't matter. Bottoming out sucks. Girth is everything.

Got it from Entropy ECP but it's not one of their stock packages. 13 inch SPAL fans. The one on the power steering side was too tall and I returned it. Went out and found a low profile version on my own so it would fit. I think I'm only getting around 2,600 cfm of pull but no problems so far. I...

Low deck stroker here, not a Hemi but I still had clearance issues. The good folks at CVF helped me sort things out as best they could. At the end of the day I had to play with fan width. It's still tight but works well.

Wow. Very interesting. Looking forward to the feedback from the gurus on here.

Not a fan of the roller bearing pilot here. More moving parts to fail. Bronze bushings have served me well for 40 years.

Well ain't that slick. What the hell is it Dad? It would probably be a little slicker if you didn't have to tie a rag around it. Oh!!! Rattle can lid!?!?! Canadian ingenuity. :drinks:

I like to shove a bunch of rags around the seal then slip a plastic bag over the whole mess and zip tie it around the the tail shaft. You will still get a little leakage but not much. It's not that difficult. Your punch list above covers the basics. Easier with two guys. When I was younger I did...

All went well today. Fired up like a champ. Pre-Lube, yes, a bit of a hassle getting the intermediate shaft back in correctly, yes....but worth the time. Thank god it's not a small block. :p Thanks guys.

Yep, I think he even says that in the listing. The point is, very hard to find. I have looked. Good thing my original is great shape. I would go with a competition plus shifter if your not worried about "correctness". I considered it as well.

Should be this one, one year only, not that I would buy this. Good luck finding one. Shifter 6356? I don't think the handle has a number. The shifter mechanism is in the car, can't remember the number. Why not just go with a new competition plus? Original 1968 68 Road Runner Super Bee Hurst 4...

For sure an A Body shifter. OEM on a 68 Runner below.

Thanks. Leanna at Phoenix Specialty Coatings polished and powder coated the MTs.

I would agree...on an old "loose" engine, but a new tight one, no. My son's 72 Duster sat out in the eastern Colorado weather for 26 years before we rescued it. 318. We filled it with 3 gallons of Marvel and let it set for 2 weeks. Drained it and it rolled over by hand like butter. 29,000 miles...