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Evan, if you go to studebaker-info.org it explains the basics and proper order of doing a carb / timing its a Good read. When you search that website look for tune with a vacuum gauge. Good information for you.
Evan, its how we learn.. takes more of man to say that he made an oops. Respect from this guy!.
Yeah, redo timing tomorrow and see the difference. once you get base timing set. Apply vaccum to advance pod and you'll hear the rpms increase.
You'll get this ironed out.
If your main idle screw is barely turned to open the butterflies, you should be ok to open it up some more. if you have another carb kicking around, turn base idle screw while looking up from bottom to see a ball park how much you can turn screw before idle transfer slots are exposed. You can...
Evan, you should not have to drill any holes in your butterflies. We are explaining what some people do to try n doctor things up to get them to work.
Id take carb off to really clean out the float bowls and to make sure your jets are free n clear of debris. once carb is off just rotate to see...
At idle your vaccum advance is not really in play here, its when you accelerate is when vacuum is applied, it pulls on vac advance cannister to move advance plate.
Like Bob mentioned clean the idle screws passages make sure the idle screws themselves arent gouged up from overtightening.
The...
Not sure on next size up on the rod but if it shows a tad thicker on both steps try that one.
Now is a good time to taking good notes.
I'd replace plugs check wires for resistance, once you do comp test, put it back together and see how it runs.
Another thing some people adjust the idle screw...
That carb is probably mid 80s vintage when Carter got bought out by Weber. A good carb overall. Yes its running rich. It can be a couple of things.
First off, did you make sure your distributor is working correctly, vac advance works, advance mechanism moves freely and counterweights move...
Any part # would be stamped on mounting flange. Its usually covered in grease n dirt. a good cleaning will show the numbers. First thing if someone brought in a pump was to wipe the grease off of the mounting flange to find part#. This is an old school pump, it would either have a metal tag...
look on the flange after you clean off grease. the model number aka part # should be stamped eg: 4496. Take that number and Google it and you should be able to figure out exact fit etc. It looks like a Carter fp
Duh on my part take that part # and do a search on rock auto. might be easier that way
When I was putting my car back together, I decided to have instrument cluster checked and tuned up. I too bought a brand new repop fuel sender thinking hey its new its gonna work. Im glad I brought it with me to the repair shop. The tech immediately rolled his eyes and said the repop senders...
Instead of using carb spray to look for vacuum leaks, take an unlit propane torch and direct the gas at the carb base, intake , pvc valve area, any possible area that draws a vacuum.
Reason why I like propane is you turn the valve on and go...nice and quiet , and you are not focusing on pushing...
Im really not a small block guy but motor principles are the same. Since you dont know exactly what cam you currently have , I'd be a little conservative on intake, and go with performer. Before you take yours off I'd measure from the front of intake rail to to top of carb mounting see what...
First off Jordan, no need to apologize, a vast majority of us here were in your shoes at one point. I'm happy you are willing to tackle this project and not give up!!
Ok you have what is called a spreadbore carburetor primary openings are smaller for fuel economy and secondary is larger so when...
Please take some pics with carb off. If it is a 2bbl intake it might behoove you to get an aftermarket intake so all you need is a 1/4" or 1/2" thick phenolic spacer. Right now I'd be curious with your adapters if you currently have any vacuum leaks which might contribute to some of your current...
Jordan, looking at the pic of your carb / intake it looks as if you are running an oem intake manifold. With that being said you might need to get a conversion style carb spacer to go from thermoquad base to afb carb base. So before you go buying stuff take a good close look at the bolt spacing...
Jordan, I noticed on your other post about the freeze plug problem, your pic shows the fuel filter and fuel line. It looks like your metal fuel filter is resting on the metal rocker arm cover.....not good. The filter will heat soak from the hot rocker arm cover and boil fuel. Try and get some...
First off check to make sure your choke is set properly. After its sat for 30 mins, have you looked down the carb while operating the throttle to make sure there's gas coming out of the accelerator nozzle? Is the carb hot to the touch? Same goes for the fuel line from fuel pump is it really...