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Run it with the radiator cap off from cold start until the thermostat opens. Trapped air in the block will get forced out, or burped out. It worked on my old all iron 383 when it overheated randomly out on the road.

This is exactly my setup, 499ci stroker in Texas. All stock except for the 180F thermostat and aluminum water pump. Never overheats.

I have a clutch fan in the garage, I’m now motivated to install it and see if it keeps the temps in a similar range as the mechanical. I’m still leaving power on the table, but hopefully less than 30hp.

ok i just watched the dulcich and freiberger show on fans, you were right i might rethink this fan situation lol. Maybe throw the clutch fan on, or try to run without a shroud. Without the shroud it won't pull as much air so the cooling might be reduced, and i really don't want to put big amp...

yes i know but I'm not worried, it's a street car making 600bhp. I can spare some some power for accessories as long as it stays cool.

mechanical

I'm using a mancini racing hi flow aluminum housing and pump with 26" OEM radiator, trick flow aluminum heads on 499ci stroker, 180F stant, OEM 7 blade and shroud. Temp gets to 190F max idling in 80F with the IR thermometer.

thanks yatz! I will likely wait and start out with the stock radiator to see how it goes but then again I don't want to run 200+ right out of the gate either. Looks like us radiator has mid range options that look reasonably priced. All I have run are factory radiators so I really don't know...

gearing up for a new engine install. Right now I am running a 1967 26" oem big block radiator. It runs pretty well with the 383, I commute with it in the summer and no issues. New mill is 500ci so I figure I may need to upgrade to stay around 180-190 coolant temp. I like the look of copper oem...