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Now, now. It's not always about money with everyone. And not always a "cover" version, Cyndi. One of the most important things is to have the deck lid on when fitting the quarters and dutchman. Getting the gaps and heights on those body gaps as close as you can. Lots of compromises between...

At least your Road Runner got paint. Are you finding missing and mismatched hardware and welding done by a "fifth grader"? I wonder if quality was dependent on price or options.

Right now I'm replacing the cowl top on a matching car. I've already pulled the matching engine and built a replacement engine of the same date and size. I even may replace the matching transmission with a spare Passon 4 speed overdrive. I'm going to do only the modifications necessary like...

Honey, I shrunk the Charger. More at home in....

My father's first car was a 1933 Plymouth Business Coupe. I have the bill of sale from when it was bought that names it as such. I guess that sort of shoots down the whole sloping rear and maybe even the no post thing since it has post. Were the rear windows fixed? I'll might check my titles as...

You will need to be your own assessor as to money spent . My only preference is I like to know what has been done to my car. Therefore I always lean to making the car myself rather than buying someone else's hot rod. Do you know what is under the other car's nice paint? Not to mention mechanical...

Other issues aside, I only know of one part which is unique to car. It's small and it's the only part I know of that is not replaceable. If a car doesn't have that, and the car has been changed to resemble something other than what it was, it's a simulation. And, of course, all cars are "only...

Seriously. 6 and 8 http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/what’s-in-a-name.78890/#post-910133647 Break. To the OP: Which is more valuable, a diamond or a ruby? With that rhetorical question in mind, I would rather have a Bee or Coronet than an " R/T Charger" for purely personal reasons.

Preserve as much as you can and be creative with the rest. It's apparent that you like Mopars. But are you a parent and do you have future plans for your cars? If so, what does the rest of the family want?

You should need the IVR4 http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/Image:Ivr4limiter.JPG I was able to put on in my 69 RR by reaching up under the dash. I was surprised as it was much easier to get to than an A body. RTE sells them on ebay too.

All I can say is I'm almost glad Plymouth is no more. Maybe Road Runner is safe. ( I say almost)

My recent experience is that any Chrysler style ECU you get at the auto parts store is of inferior quality. I run a stock Chrysler distributor with this ECU and Flamethrower coil. This is a high mileage use and I want as little maintenance as possible on the car. http://www.4secondsflat.com/

Could be several things maybe. You know that circuit works on voltage and resistance. Do you still have a mechanical 5 volt limiter? Is it consistent? I've put the RTE Engineering solid state one in some of my cars. What about the associated connections to the tank unit? Are they old and adding...

Please aee above re the polyurethane.

I'm saying I tried two new ones on the charger front glass. Both had puckers. And the back glass rubber ....don't even go there. Saw daylight under it. For the record it depends on the car as to which I would use. I did two A bodies 15 years ago. I reused the windshield rubbers and glued them...

This from my limited experiace with the new gaskets on the market. So did someone MEAN to disagree with the 3M 08509 usage for windshields? It IS a glazing product per the Mfg. Well. I have nothing.

You can use gobs and gobs of something like this that will never set up. It can be easily removed with mineral spirits. And it probably won't leak. Or you use can a setting urethane like this and it won't leak. But you will never get the rubber back out of the car. I have used both. My...

Sorry for any confusion. You probably figured it out from other post or a google. It's sort of a generic term for a volt meter. Kleenex. My intent was to start high and work low. The easy way. Put it right on the battery and check the cranking voltage. Then do the hard part right at the starter...

Since you say it works with a charger on it????? Put a Fluke meter on the battery cable and to ground. Are you getting good voltage under load? Look for a voltage drop. Triple check your power connections. Any hidden corrosion under the lugs/terminals? Jump the solenoid on the fender to be sure...

Repair cowl rust. You mean like this?:lol: