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This is good to know. I always thought they had to be exactly even

I’ve heard complete mixed reviews on this. Some say they slide right in. Others say sometimes they are pure evil to install. I’m going to take it apart again. No idea what could be wrong. Literally everything is new or rebuilt in the suspension.

Yes they are the same height. I’m still screwing around with this. I think I need a big wrench and some leverage to get the torsion bar lined up properly . Very frustrated at this point.

Yes I think I will

I know what you mean. I’ll have to look into this. Looks very level in the back side to side

Interesting you mention this. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with that but didn’t know how it would directly be involved. I have the superstock springs which have 2 extra half leafs on the right side I believe. Couple of years old. That’s the same side that is sagging more.

At least I’m not the only one!

I’ll have a look but the car is pretty solid. Just had all the body work done and the crossmember wasn’t a concern when down to bare metal . I’ll watch the back and have someone else crank the bolt just to be sure.

My thoughts were to remove the swivel as well to clock down further but then was stumped on how to get it back in

Yep totally agree with this . Tried to get it to line up by doing this and i can’t get it over to that next flat spot. This may be a dumb question but can that socket end/arm that touches the adjustment swivel lose it’s integrity and start to bend under tension? Or is there no way that would...

Left side (side that went in easy and adjusts easily) is higher. Right side (passenger) sags. I can get right side to slide in similar to the left side but have to crank the bolt a stupid amount to even out the height even close. I feel as if the torsion bar needs to do one full clock over on...

Everything is really tight. No slop. I even went as far as to disconnect the lower control arm completely to pull it down as far as possible. Still tends to fall into only one place. Bars come out fairly easily once the adjustment bolt is loosened off.

Front end of mine is all rebuilt as well. How do I check this clocking? I’m not sure what you mean by that. Won’t they only slide in if the clocking is correct? I think PST has the bars clocked at 20 degrees

Brand new bushing. I’m interested to know why you think that could cause the issue. Would play in that bushing prevent tension in the torsion bar? I’m open to a discussion about anything as I’ve tried to unravel this issue a bunch of ways in my head.

Having an issue with my right side torsion bar not holding weight as well as the left side. I thought it was an old bar that lost its tension so I purchased brand new PST bars, same issue. They are both installed when bump stops were removed and lower control arm is dropped as much as possible...

Poly just squeaks. It’s a pain in the a**. All stock for me, drives me nuts.

I think it’s time for me to update the single pot in my 64 with one of these.

Look up uncle Tony’s garage on YouTube. He does a great video on pinion snubbers. When to use them and when not to. Explains how suspension affects hook up as well and does it in a way that is easy to understand.

Same happened on mind. Bolt the u bolts down and it squeezes tight. My pinion and and geometry was all good afterwards, no worries.

Had air shocks on my 64 Plymouth for two years. Wanted the raised up look but couldn’t stand the hard ride. Just installed SS 3400lbs springs and kyb shocks last weekend and will never look back. With that being said, never did any damage with the air shocks.