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If this was in my garage, I'd remeasure the driveline angles at the joints again just to confirm the angles. I would set the pinion angle down just a smidge to account for axle wrap while under a load if they are off. Once that is confirmed and within spec, I'd start to look into front slip yoke...
The throwout bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate, just not loaded until your foot pushes the pedal. Not sure how long the bearing will live this way. Guess I’ll find out eventually.
Spent some time sorting out my issues here. I cleaned and flushed everything up for reassembly. Going back together I noticed the TB guide pin was too short for the bearings travel which allowed the bearing to slide off the pin and get stuck. I removed the guide pin and made a new one that is...
I pulled the transmission tonight and inspected the bearing assembly. The fluid inside the unit was dirty and had debris in it. I’ll take responsibility on not flushing the lines while assembling everything. I’m not sure what I could have done to get dirt in the system but It will be clean going...
I will look at it more tonight for sure. I think my kid will be home to help.
It was snug on the bearing retainer. There's an o-ring in the bore to keep it snug. The bearing/hydraulic portion of the assembly moves independently and does not slide on the bearing retainer. (sorry, hopefully that...
I recently 4 speed swapped my Super Bee and while doing the conversion, I went with an American Powertrain Hydraulic throwout bearing kit. I went step by step, and dialed everything in according to the instruction. My throw out bearing was set with 0.163" and within the specified range. Pedal...
I've struggled with this problem too. The gaskets like Moes has above are typically best. They have to have the steel ring in the center. If not they almost instantly burn through.
Tune up, Advance the timing (38-40 total advance), tune the carb, and verify the timing chain isn’t stretched. Don’t forget to flip the air cleaner lid . If you have a few bucks, throw a cam in it. It will also give you a chance to replace that worn out timing chain.
Headers, Intake and Carb...
I didn't consider the lines until you mentioned this. Upgrading to 1/2" sounds like a great idea but I'm unsure of fittings and all at the trans. Is it easy enough to upgrade to the 1/2" lines at the trans?
Hey FBBO, I need some ideas......
I'm looking to add a transmission cooler to my Bee since I'm cooking the fluid on track days at the road course. Currently I have a deep pan with the factory radiator cooler and it is absolutely inadequate. I'd love to mount one or two under the car, maybe...
Other than the headers, I think thats the Iron Combo thats closest to my option 1. Maybe with manifolds it will be around 500hp. You're right about the torque at the track but I prefer to have it over high rpm horsepower.
I should try to clearify a bit here....
I would love to make 500-550 hp. My wifes new scat pack makes 485 and I gotta one up her, right?. I'm looking to spend $3000 but can budget more if I need too. I have some 1/4 mile data only because I was there for the Roadkill event last January, not...
If both engines are equally healthy, I would say the 440. Reason is you wil have some extra torque and I assume it's lower compression. Not that the 383 can't get the job done, just that 440 can push those 2.76/2.94 gears with ease and be a bit tamer.
Last year, I drove to the Road Kill Zip Tie...
Option 1:
499" 9.0 to 1'ish with dished pistons (4.375)
4.15 MP Forged crank
K1 Technologies billet H Beams
Current 906 Heads with 2.14/1.81 (88cc)
Hydraulic Roller Custom Cam similar to above referenced with 113* LSA ($900 min)
HP Manifolds
Option 2:
499" 10.2 to 1'ish with same dished pistons...
You all should see my Summit Racing shopping cart, its full of a bunch of different cams, lifters, pistons, heads, headers. I need to start narrowing it down.
I could easily be diagnosed as a BiPolar engine builder or something.