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I'm running my original SS springs. The spring rate IIRC was somewhat similar. I've read everything from the Hotchkis leafs being flat (which is why I didn't purchase them originally), to the most recent case, where Roadkill Garage installed a set on their 'General Mayhem' and they actually...
You're definitely on the right track. Frame Connectors, F&R Swaybars, Torsion Bars, & Hotchkis (FOX) shocks and these cars will actually take a corner at speed. Quick ratio steering box wouldn't be a bad idea as well. Don't forget the alignment differences with modern radials, compared to...
15/16" is definitely the correct size MC for Dr. Diffs manual front and rear brake applications (works excellent with my setup), but Cass has this down to a science and really knows what works.
You're going to want to gut the factory distribution block for a front and rear disc swap. Install a...
Go 16:1, there is no reason not to if someone is accustomed to manual steering already. Dramatic change, remember to use the 11/16” c-body tie rods & adjuster sleeves as another basic & inexpensive upgrade.
No power steering, 16:1 manual box :steering: It's an inch lower in the rear now than it was in the video. Slightly lower on front, replaced the torsion bar adjusters before getting a new front-end alignment.
Yes, as long as you order the correct wheel backspacing and offset. The rear quarter panel is flush with the top of the wheel. Everything is in the stock location, the car isn't stock, but as far as the frame / wheel wells / leaf locations, yes, nothing has changed. I run a 27" x 10" tire on...
You may want to re-think the 18" wheel idea. The largest diameter tire you're going to find is going to be around 29.5", which is going to be a 325/45r18. That defeats the entire purpose of the old-school street racer stance. You want some 33" x 15" rear tires at a minimum tucked underneath...
I know when I was looking before, the P-S-T's were $400+. I know Firm Feel uses rebuilt factory units for the 16:1/20:1/24:1 boxes they sell, but they literally cost double at $550/ea with a factory core (if not, $200 core charge).
https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1240502&parttype=7416
EDIT:
$270 w/ 5% off coupon: 6123292254921426 (place in 'how did you hear about us' box)
If anyone is looking, this is the best price anywhere for a 16:1 box; $270 with no core charge! Comes with a lifetime warranty, also Lares state's...
Yep, the 11.75" combo is probably as good as it gets for a factory 15" wheel setup on a street car. 15/16" bore MC makes a huge difference, longer pedal travel but great brake modulation (with manual brakes).
I ran the Summit Racing (rebranded SSBC) kit with my Draglites, but back then, the cost wasn't as high as it is now. I would give Cass a call concerning the Viper kit, I never installed mine as I went with 18" wheels.
Cass sells an 11.75" kit with the 2.75" bore caliper for $600 as well...
To throw in a huge can of worms, here is Wilwoods catalog which displays bore sizes;
http://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Catalogs/TechCatalog.pdf
Remember earlier, we mentioned the factory 2.75" single piston caliper on our braking systems, and how it worked fairly well (regarding brake bias with...
My 11.65" Baer Iron Sport (Cobra) rear brake kit, required some grinding off the caliper to fit inside 15" draglite wheels.
I would say a vast majority of the time, you'll need a 16" wheel to run a 12" brake kit (not all the time). From their site, it looks like you'll need 14.14" to clear with...
Yes, the correct master cylinder can make a world of difference!
It's an art selecting the correct bore size. Someone like Cass (Doctor Diff) is someone who I would trust concerning this topic, not many other individuals that specialize in Mopar braking systems.