Search results for query: *

I would replace the tank. Spectra are good quality. Jeff at 521 will lead you in the right direction.

Whats the number on the bottom left front ear?

I stand corrected. My manual says 73 +-12 empty and 9.6 +-1 full. Proves I should RTFM first, LOL.

Yup, sounds like there is high resistance at that connection. You want the readings to be good where the gauge wire and ground connects.

The resistance should range from 20ish ohms full to 90ish ohms empty, 50ish for half a tank. This is a NOS 68-70 sender.

Krylon Dull aluminum also works well.

I use Marine-Tex 2 part epoxy on the lower bowls when I rebuild TQ's. Not cheap compared to JB weld but it works well.

Also from your picture above the S link for the accelerator pump is on backwards. It should look like an S when looking at it from the front. It will affect your pump shot if backwards.

I did not, replaced the push rod with a NOS one and sold the car a few months late. Was my first experience with a push rod failure. If it happened to me I would definitely take a good look at it.

They are the same on both ends so it can go in either way. I am amazed to see an original worn that much. Wondering if the metal on modern cams are causing this or just ground wrong??? What cam? I had one go south on a Comp 268.

And a Troy Built Horse tiller!

Early 72's had the vents on the drivers side venting into the evap can in the wheel well like 71's. Late had them in front. If the can is not leaking get the 71- early 72 tank.

Soak it in some WD40.

Thermoquads are fantastic carbs when setup properly. You found the right resource and got that done. Enjoy!

:rofl:

No, completely different tank.

5/16 with no return on a 318 car. This is the sender. Are you needing the tank too? you should have the later tank with the 4 vents in front. Look up above the shock mount and see if the is a little can with 4 nipples on it. The early tank have the evap can in the wheelwell behind the drivers tire.

I ran the Mopar unsilenced on my Duster and 72 Charger with Thermoquads. Available from Mancini racing.

Sure. Add a switch and run it for a few seconds to prime things up when needed. Might want to consider a return line if you don't have one to help with the vapor lock.

Bottom one in Beanheads picture for that location.