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I would be more than happy to help you out if I were close. When you get the bars and ready to change them out many here will be willing to give advise on changing them out so it's not a PITA.
Yes, I used a piece of 1'1/4" pipe across the fenders to hold the front of the engine up while I swapped the k-frame out. A 4x4 would work fine, maybe even over kill.
OK, you have some work to do.
Medium pry bar in the slot of the top of the caliper into the rotor. Pull that bar as hard as you can till the caliper becomes "sloppy", 1/4" or so is all you need. Once your there get a boxed end wrench on the pin and give it a SOLID blow wit a dead blow hammer...
It is adjustable for different master cylinder depths. You want about .025 clearance to the bore of the master cylinder for best performance. This article explains it well.
https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap
That's how I got mine and then sent the booster to Vacuum Brake Boosters | Power Brake Booster Exchange, Lynwood for a rebuild and fresh Zinc Dichromate. Works great.
The pedals the same. You need the booster, firewall bracket, and all the linkage from the booster to the pedal. Use a 1-3/2" master cylinder for power brakes. I went with a Dr Diff aluminum when I did mine.
Been this way for years going back to the 90’s. There was a couple other suspension companies along with PST offering kits and they all were outer tie rod only.
More $$$$ if you need more.