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You guys would have cried at the condition of the cylinders on the 440 in my 68 T/C wagon....there is even a small chunk of cylinder wall missing the size of a pea and quite deep. Been running this worn and high mile motor for over a decade with no issues. Never touched the short block other...

Does it make these noises when driving straight, or only when you make turns? Most likely it will need a rebuild or replacement depending on what type of sure grip you have, clutch or cone? You can rebuild the cone style units, I've done it, by having the cones machined down a bit then...

Sometimes the throw out bearing can hang up on the input shaft and make it a little tougher to get the transmission to slide out, but just wiggle, rotate a pull and it should pop out.

With your stated expectations for the motor and with 3.23 gearing and options I don't think this is the right cam for you. I made the mistake of running to large a cam in a 383 with a 4spd and 3.23...the car was horrible below 3500 rpm....once over that it took off! But I wanted a cruiser and...

You have to remove your hood then I suspect. ;)

This was close to 25 years ago now...but I think I most likely hooked a chain up to a couple intake bolts then used an engine picker to lift the motor up.

You can try to rotate the crank to get the journals to line up right to give you a little extra room to get the pan off? But I removed the oil pan in my 73 340 RR years ago to do the rear main seal...and I had to remove my engine fan, upper and lower radiator hoses, remove the lower bolt for...

Dodge did make a semi floater 70 or maybe it was a 80, around 1998 or so...quite a rare piece.

I agree with the others...that damaged and welded bearing retainer is a huge red flag...I would want to replace that and check/rebuild the rest of the transmission before ever putting that in a vehicle. So the transmission is a rebuildable core and not worth what he thinks it is....so $250-300...

If you want a car with good driving characteristics in and around town, and good hwy cruising I'd stick with a mostly stock torque converter, maybe run one rated for the larger C-bodies and you should be pretty happy with things I'd think.

I've run both 2.76 and 3.23 in my 68 T/C wagon, 440/727, and 225/70/15 tires, and while the hwy cruising with the 2.76's is a little better the in town and low end pick up is kind of poor, and having the transmission constantly jumping between gears from part throttle kick down pressure being...

I bought a 87 Dodge Ram D250 with a 360/auto and when I got it home and started servicing it the tranny fluid that came out looked like chunky chocolate milk and worst smelling fluid I've ever drained out of any vehicle! There was no drain on the converter so put new filter and fluid in it and...

Two lower brackets go from the engine block to the transmission bell housing on small blocks. Other one I don't know.

I know right...rest of the country is finally starting to realize a good time when they encounter it! :thumbsup:

That sucks man...:( I assume you have proper kick down linkage so there is throttle pressure on the transmission kick down lever? If the torque converter grenaded then it probably sent shrapnel thorght the transmission.

Cost is such a hard thing to put a price on, depends on your abilities and how and where you source parts and how you want the car set-up as the final product. Do you want the 5.7 and matching modern transmission? Do you want to leave it EFI or convert to a carb? Run stock interior and...

Get yourself an Edelbrock 750 Vac secondaries with electric choke....this will work on your intake, and with the correct dual snorkel air cleaner.

If you drove 200-300 miles with no throttle pressure on the kickdown lever on the transmission then you have likely cooked your tranmission, doesn't matter if you ever use kick down/passing gear or not the transmission needs that pressure or it will fail quickly.

Well with a 361 I'm assuming a early 66 Charger? I assume your 2bbl kick down linkage is a 3 piece set up? Should have one rod from the carb to the pivot on the back of the intake, then another rod from that pivot down to the transmission bell housing area, then one more rod from that point to...

Tell him to buy another complete core motor so you have all the parts you need to get his motor back together properly.