Search results for query: *

If you are concerned at all just install an adjustable pressure valve between the master cylinder and the rear drums, then you can dial it in exactly how you want it.

I remember when I was restoring my coronet I had a hard time finding a set of good lower control arms, and all the ones I did find had no sway bar brackets. I eventually just had a friend who was an old time welder swap the brackets from my toasted originals to the nice clean replacements, he...

When you added the adjuster did you swap in the complete system with all the springs, cables, and other hardware along with the E-brake system lever etc?

I had to rebuild the 4 piston disc brake system on my coronet over the winter after car sat for 20 years, I had those calipers sleeved 25 years ago in stainless and they were still in perfect shape but the company that did the sleeves only re-used the OEM pitted pistons and they were not usable...

If you're not worried about originality then I'd suggest going Hydro-boost for your braking, I've been thinking I might go this route on my wagon. I have power booster and MC but I just hate how much room it takes up in the engine bay.

I put a rear disc set-up on my 68 Chrysler T/C wagon and have not been inpressed with it...sure it looks cool through the slots on my cop car rims but the cost and reliability just doesn't justify it, I'll be switching back to drums some day soon. I'd recommend upgrading your rear drums to the...

The sway bar runs on the front of the lower control arms and across the front of the K-member, the steering components run off the back side of the K-member and lower control arms, so unless they state that the product might interfere with the oil pan or something than I don't think upgrading to...

I've used Firm Feel bars in the past and found them good quality.

With the sway bar go with the largest you can find 1.125" or 1.25", and then use poly bushings on the end links and mounts....this will give you the best handling for the car, the rest of the bushings and such stay with rubber.

Been a few years since I've been into any 68-70 steering columns but is there not already a lower bearing in the steering column...that yellowing plastic one in your pic I believe? Why do you need a second lower bearing, or are you wanting to replace that lower bearing with a ball bearing type...

I have 4 wheel discs on my 68 Chrysler Town and Country wagon, 440 car with A/C so a big heavy beast, I can easily lock up my brakes on the wagon. I run a 1.125" bore aluminum master cylinder from an 80's RWD mopar (disc/drum) on a Cardone replacement disc brake booster. I'm running an OEM...

I'd still pull the drums and remove the wheel cylinders, pull them apart and clean the parts really well..with that much corrosion and moisture the walls of the cylinders might be in rough shape....maybe a quick hone to clean them up.

I bought them through Rockauto...They were about $150 cnd each including the core charge. And I think if you try and bend the bracet to clear the caliper you are going to mess up the angle the flexible brake line has to come into the bracket, and that line now might hit the caliper. Also the...

My reproduction calipers came in the other day...they are really nice units to be honest and I mic'd and measured everything and they are exactly the same as the OEM units. I even pulled one of the pistons...yup exactly the same as the OEM units in every measurement I took. As mentioned by...

Can't help with the whole unit, or the booster but I had booster Dewey redo my OEM Bendix booster on my coronet 25 years ago...and it's still working today and I just replaced my original OEM Bendix master with one of the reproduction units, probably the same one on this kit. So on the...

Interesting...I'll have to do some asking around and see if I can find a CNC shop that might be willing to do these for me and what prices might look like. Ultimately I really can't see it being cheaper then $250-300 for the cost of a set of reproduction calipers as donors for my OEM's. ;)

Thanks is that through Mcmaster-Carr? And those are US prices, I can assure you the canadian prices will be a lot higher! Looking more and more like the pistons from the reproduction calipers will be the cheapest route to go.

Thank you hemi71x and gkent...I appreciate your advise and knowledge. I also don't know if I can even get stainless solid 2" round stock in shorter then 8' lengths. But talking with a co-worker the other day I got the name of a local retired individual who is said to do small jobs with his...

Was thinking about this last night while working and I think I'll just run these new caliper and in the mean time I'll hunt for a local machinist who can make me a set of new pistons to fit my OEM calipers. I had not thought about the pistons being a different size...Well I will measure them...

I've ordered a set of the Cardone calipers....gonna just use the pistons and seals in my OEM sleeved units. I've been looking for pistons but can't seems to find any...do you have a source?