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The electric fans with shrouds are probably restricting air flow across the front of the condenser/rad...switch to a 7 blade clutch fan with shroud and I bet you'd have better cooling.

When replacing a heater core in a 93 Cummins W250 we went through 6 heater cores before we found one that the inlet/outlet tubes were bent close enough to the OEM unit that we could make it work. So if the OEM unit is working, send it out for cleaning and small repairs before tossing it in the...

When I was bringing my 68 T/C wagon back to road worthiness I opted for all new under hood A/C components, Sanden compressor and cross flow condenser, etc and left all my OEM HVAC system alone inside the car....works great! No reason you can't use the 5.7 A/C compressor and then use...

I never trust the straightness of the of our old motors parts and accessories. I always toss on a thin coat of RTV on any and all gasket surfaces, even with a a new cork/paper/composite gasket.

I disagree with Bob...the fan should be sitting 1/2"-1" inside the shroud, not that close to the radiator core INSIDE the shroud. If you did this all you are doing is spinning air inside the shroud and not pulling any air through the radiator. I had an overheating problem on my 440 years ago...

The plastic in the old switches gets weak and will distort and warp over time from heat/cool cycles. When this happens you can get bleed through from one vacuum circuit into another thus loosing the strong vacuum source you need to keep the actuator(s) open/closed.

I converted my 68 T/C wagon to modern underhood AC from Bouchillon as well....works great with the OEM HVAC system, and I have close to 10 years on it since the conversion.

I believe the firewall is the same between the AC and Non-AC trucks. Also the HVAC box and all the controls are the same from about 1980-1993. The later 91-93 trucks switch from the C-171 AC compressor to a Sanden, at least on the cummins trucks, not 100% sure on the gassers though. Make sure...