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I agree...a factory service manual is one of the best tools you can have for working on your vehicle.

Well after looking at the diagram a bit closer and the picture with the plug I think I will stand by my earlier statement as a connector for console lighting The pic shows a pink, yellow and orange where as the wiring schematic shows a yellow, orange and red, red being the main power for a...

Power window feed would have a have a 12/14ga red wire running through the plug, and most likely a black or dark blue for the ground. The orange/pink/yellow wiring is almost always some sort of lighting.

:lol:

I'm generally not a fan of LED headlights and Halo rings etc but I think this looks good and is very well done... :thumbsup:

I know Costco has some Group 27 batteries with the positive post in the right location...but they are generally slightly larger size body wise meant for trucks but do fit in the battery tray on a B-body.

All the light functions, turn signal and brake lights run through the steering column and a faulty or warped switch can cause all kinds of frustrating issues....been there! So most likely your issue is in the turn signal switch.

Are you sure you have the vacuum advance hooked up to a ported vacuum source on the carb? I've had over heating and performance issues when I accidentally hooked up the vacuum advance to a straight vacuum source off the carb. Do you have a dial back digital timing light and a vacuum gauge...

I was unaware of this kit...when I finally get my old Coronet back I will definitely be doing this...Thanks for the thread and links!:thumbsup:

Sounds like a bad ground(s), or frayed/cracked powered wiring going to ground.

I was going to suggest checking the wiring, I used an original 69 TS switch in a 68 but had to swap a couple of the wires around in the main harness connector to get everything to work properly. Glad you got it sorted out!

Remove whole headlight switch and vacuum switch and post it for sale....sure they are worth a few bucks...;)

How about removing the spade/blade terminal from the bulkhead connector itself then run the wire straight through...would look OK and appear to a casual glance that it is correct, but you would do away with that problem prone connection.

Most likely it was the magnetic pick up in the electronic dizzy. My daughters 88 Aries K-car with a 2.5L motor would run perfectly until it hit a certain temperature and then just turn off like someone switch off the key. Took me forever to figure out that it was the HAL sensor in the dizzy...