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I ran them for years as does Dad. Drone is very minimal IF the exhaust is suspended properly. Around 2000 to 2200 rpm you can detect it but way less than most any other mufflers we tested.

JG, that will be a great choice. The 17748 does everything very well. It flows well, sounds good, and is relatively quiet but has some tone. Be sure they hang it with "as stock of hangers" as you can find. No solid rods welded to the muffler and the brackets. :):)

Not to steal VanDan's thunder but I had Eaton Detroit Spring make me a set with a 1" lift for my Barracuda. They are perfect.

Wow, that is awesome BUT the frame stiffeners are really tight to the outlets aren't they? I'd sure think the only way to handle this one would be to do as another suggested and add an extension to the outlet. But, the bend is going to be pretty sharp. Darn. It'll be kind of tough no matter...

FMAHANNAH/Early Auto, There is another way to do it if you have a way to cut flanges. If not but if you have patterns of both, I may be able to help out. Tom

They did all they could to be sure the pipes did not bang into torsion bars as the engine rocked. They put flats to clear the crossmember and the ground, in some cases.

Stock 340s in 69 were way worse.

If it was shoved in, it should pop out on its own. They can't have shoved things over the tail pipe and into the muffler. I guess you could tap on the pipe with a hammer and listen as you do and see if one area has a dull thud rather than a ring.

Fiberglass won't. If the case is not distorted, no way that 1/2" thick section of glass matting can come out the small perforations of the three tubes.

A good backfire could open up the skins/shells and let the fiberglass escape into the end cavities and then out the pipe. Take photos of the mufflers' front and rear view or at least one from the side if you can.

FMa, the only way it came out is if you have the case outer skin/wrap/cover separating from the inner. They can't blow the glass out if the muffler is truly intact and as built inside. They usually warranty issues like that so I'd contact the Dynomax folks. They are great people.

The Super Turbo matting is only about 1/2" thick and wraps aorund the three center tubes. The piece looks a lot bigger BUT without any size reference, it is hard to tell.

73, on my pal's 400 4 barrel 72 Satellite Sebring we used 2.5" Imposter mufflers from Waldron. They rumble a bit but don't recall a drone issue. they are basically an opened up stock muffler.

Yep, that is Jim, the inventor and I was taking the photos!!

Dynomax #17748 are offset center 2.5 configuration and will fit the B body and a body if you trim pipes bit. they are relatively quiet, flow very well for their sound control, and are very capable of not droning if supported with stock type hangers. AP XLERATORS' 18" ones will also work but...

Scott, I was there at the MCACN with the Humbler VOE 1970 GTO; we were displaying our cutaway VOE muffler along with the former President of one off the big USA muffler suppliers. His group, Oldberg, supplied MOPAR and GM factory mufflers in the 60s. He may be able to provide some more info...

WE made a CD of Muffler sounds that has 22 different mufflers with and without crossovers. Recorded and sound level checked at three speeds and we did so with professional recording and editing equipment. I still have the ability to burn them.

Most stock or OEM mufflers that I have seen do not have the arrows. Aftermarket ones from certain manufacturers did so consumers could not reverse them during installation.

Call out any old muffler shop and ask if they have the IPC Huth bend cards. iI they have it, they can bend for you and share data likely.

If the mounting is close to stock as far as being compliant and movable, the 17748 will be smoother and quieter and less droney than the straight through Magnaflow. I have two almost new ones here but to ship to you would be cost prohibitive compared to what you can get them for from other sources.