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Third post like this in as many weeks. The 2 barrel bracket for the cable and kickdown is different than a 4 barrel bracket. The cable can be made to work, but the clamp will be in an odd spot, possibly on the jacket instead of the metal sleeve. The kickdown will need to be modified to have...

Isn't "Carolina Machine", home of CME engines somewhere up there?

OOps, sorry I confused this thread with the other guy having a similar issue. I'll delete my previous post.

I didn't notice the adapter wasn't on there. That will move the pin back a bit, too. Those are a MUST. Wait- is there another thread on that? I think I may have commented on there.

Bouchillon kick down cable is another option.

OK, yours is the flat bar and not the threaded rod. You could cut, add a section, and reweld the bar... You could also try a bolt through the slot, and nut to act as a stop for the peg.

Issue 1, timing- you are going the wrong way! Try 0 degrees, that's book spec for my 73 and that's where it likes it. Issue 2, kickdown- Mike is exactly right. Worse, if you keep driving it like that you will (not might, but WILL) burn out third gear. The throttle cable/kickdown bracket is...

Unless he didn't get the axle shafts and want's to use A body shafts he already has.

What car is it going in? If it's a "29" body or a 67-69 Barracuda, I would advise against cutting it. The stock 65-67 B axle puts the rear track even with a factory disk brake front on those cars.

'nuther kinda simple question- Have you driven it? IE is it actually kicking down? You could always put the old carb back on and see if it operates properly. If it doesn't, that suggests something else happened.

How much adjustment is left? How much difference is there in the location of the old carb mounting point and the new? Again- WAY better to have kickdown on too early, than have no pressure in the trans.

I would run the adjustment back towards kickdown engagement a fair amount. Much safer to have it come in too quick and adjust that out, than drive it with no pressure and burn up third gear.

Well, there yo go. That's pretty much what it has to be.

I have better luck setting the timing "by ear" to where the specific engine likes it, rather than by the book spec. Loosen the distributor hold down, but only so much so that you can still turn the distributor with moderate effort. Back off the timing a smidge. Test drive and see if the...

What exactly was changed since it last worked?

I've been a 5000 mile guy since the 80's and my 1.4 t says "not to exceed 10,000". Never bought into 3000 or less and never had an issue. EVIC on the 1.4 has been telling me to change about 9200-9500.

I run that Valvoline syn blend "high mileage" 10/30 in everything except my 1.4 turbo. No gasket or seal leakage issues. If I can't find that, I've used the motorcraft product that's very similar.

I'd mock up the axle the OP has. Might work just fine and save him a cool G note or more. The 67 B body 8 3/4 I put in my duster was 1.5" wider. It did change the track, but not enough to need different offset wheels. Perhaps the Charger does not have quite as generous wheel wells but I bet...

Around here, you can get a 150,000 mile 5.9 in a truck with a bad trans for $2500 or less. I've seen them as low as $800.

What are you calling "high mileage"? At 177,000 mine runs like the day I bought it with 31,000 on it's clock. Moves my 4200 pound truck like a scalded dog with the 3.92 SG 9 1/4 and 9" wide tires.