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You don't want a drag.
...but you want almost instant contact.
I like to smack the drum back and forth to help set the shoes.
BTW- back a few pics, I see the adjuster anchor is on the top of the springs.
I always put that on the bottom. That way the springs keep it on.
I agree with KD, I've come to believe Mopar did a great percentage of "proportioning" with the bore sizes of the wheel cylinders and calipers, even on front disk cars.
That's why people installing aftermarket kits or a mix of OEM parts seem to have a lot of trouble.
If you use OEM stuff, get...
I was talking about the plate at the bottom of the column that bolts to the floor.
74 is different and the holes don't line up.
That's if you wanted to swap the 74 column into the 73 car.
That looks correct for 73.
Be aware that the 73 "rag joint" is one year only and pretty expensive.
That's why mine has a $4 hockey puck (and have been in there for almost 12 years).
You can retrofit the entire 74 setup, and use the $12 parts store ford rag joint, but there a little work...
Are the parts assembled in the proper order?
This is what my 73 looks like at the box.
Heat shield is missing while I test fit.
Yes, that's a hockey puck.
Dug this thread up looking a for a pic of my tie rod end orientation to help another member.
Just a quick update-
I must have put the bar in the right place as there has been zero uneven tire wear in the six years since the OP, and the car handles great since doing this and replacing and...
That's what I was gonna say.
It looks like the stud is pulled down through the hole pretty tight, though.
Might have ruined the arm doing that.
I've also never seen zerks on top. Real hard to grease them that way.
I agree on the solid or stiff poly ISO bushings.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Now lets talk about those upper control arm bushings and the lack of documentation on replacing them.
...and that 1973 only steering "rag joint" coupler.
Hellwig makes a really nice sway bar that bolts to the bottom of the shock.
Super easy install.
IIRC there are two different factory bar setups based on early or late production.
Looks like you need both the bar and the LCAs and will likely require some bushing work and an alignment to get...
@Longknife
You disagree that I've never loosened the LCA nuts, or you disagree that I've never had any issues without doing it.
I can guarantee you 100%, that I've done exactly that many times.
How would you know? You weren't there.
I'll bet many others have done the same.
Toe is the easiest alignment setting to change and can be measured and adjusted with common tools.
5" rise from factory ride height with good springs, or 5" rise from worn, sagging springs.
IIRC factory ride height has the upper wheel arch even with the inside edge of the outer wheel rim.
I...