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Uh, oh. A new version of "pulley hell".
Is the kit designed for a car that did not have AC as built?
If it was, things won't line up.
There are all kinds of things different, especially with respect to pulley grooves lining up between factory AC and non-AC cars.
Different brackets, different...
I wish someone made an aluminum exit drain like the plastic one that comes in that kit.
After about 3 uses it doesn't fit tight anymore.
Also- I've added a good quality (red, flexible) garden hose washer to the T cap.
The way it comes eventually leaks.
I second Therm-O-Cure.
It's the only ting that finally cleaned out my Dakota.
Also, it's difficult for the thermostat to open if the water in the radiator is flowing through, and constantly being replaced with cooler water.
I do use the T and I periodically shut off the water hose and loosely...
I believe that blue wire off the compressor goes to the pressure cut out switch next to the condenser in front of the radiator.
If there isn't enough pressure in the system, the compressor won't come on, but you can apply 12v to that wire to test.
Whoops.
I read "blower" but processed "heater core".
I actually think my Dakota is very similar to working on my vintage Mopars.
It's probably the last/newest vehicle I'll be able to do anything more than super simple repairs to.
Step 1- remove dash assembly, after having previously rigged up supports from the roof or door pillars......
Seriously, that's how the FSM procedure begins.
I've always cursed the fact that it would be 1000 times easier to simply have a rectangular panel on the exterior of the firewall...on...
Probably.
I've got two "extra" AC dashes.
I'll be at the shop either this evening or tomorrow evening.
I should probably ask- is there anything different between 72 and 73/74?
Out of curiosity what did it cost you to have the ends recrimped?
There are two shops near me that do that, and I had a clutch cable end recrimped for a motorcycle I used to have for less than half the cost of a new cable.
...but that shop said recrimping my AC lines would likely cost more...
I couldn't find where the dye was coming from on mine for almost a month.
Finally found it was coming from right in between the connector prongs on the pressure relief valve mounted on the dryer.
It all vented straight out the grill.
Only 2-3 very small droplets way down on the inside of the...
Yes, it is except for the outside of the box condensation dripping on the carpet.
External condensate drain is working fine.
There are droplets forming on the exterior of the box, and during turns, they run together and form drops heavy enough to drip off.
Kinda hate that I'm hijacking this...
Jerry lists Alabama as his location.
That's pretty close. That's why I asked him specifically.
I started at 50 on the low side but reduced it to 48 to try to combat the condensation issue.
It reduced the temp at the vents but didn't really help the condensation.
I was running 50 before the...
Hey, Jerry-
What pressures are you running?
After I changed my dryer due to a bad blow-off valve, I now get considerable condensation on the evaporator box.
Enough to drip. It's NOT a leak.
I'm at 48 on the low side and 225-ish on the high side.
Blows about 42-45 degrees at the vent.
AFAIK...
about 50
There's a chart based on heat in your location at the time you take the reading. Should be relatively easy to find on line.
...but it's somewhere around 50 on the low side.
Step 1-
See if it will hold a vacuum.
The next step depends on the answer to that question.
Do you have gauges? I bought some from an ebay seller. $50 IIRC.
I see them at pawn shops, too but be aware of brands and prices for new.
If there's a Rural King near you, they are the cheapest for...