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I also use rage gold. Great stuff

Spring time yellow hides some marks. But do yourself a favor. Just block it out until it's right. If your gonna scuff it to reshoot it, just block it a few times after the scuffing and be done.

As mentioned. Silver isn't a user friendly color. It likes to black line. I will never paint a silver car in pieces. To many variables with that color.

I have a beverly shear they work great!

I agree that isn't there first time, I have done a ton of rough cars, lots of late 20' to late 30's stuff, It can be done with no jig or a ton of bracing, but as Hemi Rebel said measure measure measure, I have a chassis jig i use for building frame and such , and it makes things a ton easier...

I use everything from my plasma cutter to air saw to tin snips to electric shears,beverly shear, but I do use my die grinder with a 3 1/2 disc ALOT, just like Bladecutter, it really depends on what your cutting and just like him I tape all my marks or I will use a piece of 1/2x1/2 angle iron or...

Some times if I am getting into a seriously straight body job I will put some 220 on my hand board file and go over and block it quickly to find all the little marks and ripples (because we all know Taiwan stuff is perfect LOL) and make a mental note of them so I can fix or remember where they...

I have been doing body work for years. I have never removed the primer, Just washed it with silicone/wax and grease remover then, run over it with the DA with some 320 grit, wipe it down again and shoot it with some PPG epoxy primer or what ever primer you choose to use... Never had a problem...

I forgot to mention I like the powedered guide coat better. It doesn't clog up the paper like some of the paint/primer guide coats

I use 180 to cut through it quick, then run over it with 220 to smooth her out a little more , then 3 more coats of the primer of your choice, guide coat again and hit it with 400 and you should be good to go. But black cars I do 3 or 4 rounds of blocking just to be safe