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Last night I realized that the radiator in the wagon is too short. Top of the tank is at the bottom of the upper tie bar. Radiator upgrade time!

My 67 wagon overheats in traffic. Today I took the time to actually LOOK at whats there. It does have the 2 piece shroud but it's been modded due to the radiator the PO put in. Has too much gap to the radiator and the fan really isn't in the hole. I'm going to close those gaps up with some...

Bing, where did you source this conversion package you mention? The 67 wagon w/440 I recently purchased has a 22" radiator, wide core, but a hokey'd up shroud and fan. It gets very hot in the old stop and go. I'm going to look for the 2 piece shroud plus a fan that hasn't been modded in a couple...

Vintage and Restomod do the same. I've set mine up for the Restomod. They have some neat stuff. I've installed Vintage on two other oldies making upgrades.

The replacement systems are set for recirc only. Helps boost efficiency. The old plenums get blocked off.

I'm going to run mine like that too. Plus the wiring.

Selling the pieces didn't happen overnight, just wish I hadn't wasted time/fuel/entry fees to sell the stuff. There will be someone out there who wants it. Take pictures and put the parts in the for sale area here as a start. If you do facebarf or other social media, try there too.

I sold the majority of my system, didn't have any O.E. under hood items, in the parts for sale section. After taking what I had to different shows/swaps with no bites, I went the free advertising route. Listed the items separately so buyers could get just what they wanted. Made more that way...

Is that a picture of the most wanted from the post office?:lol:

I happen to have most of the under dash portion of the a/c unit I took out of my 65 Coronet if you need one. No controls or fan, but have the main unit, under dash outlets, defrost units, plastic cover for it. Heater core leaked but the evaporator unit held pressure.

Your existing fan would work best mounted into the trash can. If you want to go a little out of the box like I did, here is my setup. BeCool radiator with separate Earls/Mocal coolers in front of it and the condenser. One cooler each for engine, trans and steering. I'm going to enlarge the...

Kyle, looks like you're covered on the alternator. But what about the rest of the wiring? If the wiring is sketchy, slapping on a high amp alternator can result in meltdown. May want to investigate before you get a car b que going.

Is your electrical system up to the task of getting an electric fan to run?

Nice to get feedback from a real world test.

I tried the non on my Duster years ago, had issues. Went with thermal, no issues. Could have been a defective unit. On the DD fans, you'll need some extra fan to radiator clearance as when the RPM's go up, the blade tips pull forward. Potential disaster if not taken care of.

Another trick I learned for getting air out of the system, have the nose high on the car.

It would be beneficial to get a shroud put on. Also, what style of t-stat do you use? The best one to use is the Robert Shaw style unit, brass, which flows more coolant than the Stant stainless one. The brass style is what came on the motor homes. Try the Milodon 16406 or equivalent.

Clutch type fans pull more air as they don't rotate as fast as direct drive which means the blades don't flatten out like DD units. Plus quieter. Just make sure you get a "thermal" style clutch which as a spring on the front as opposed to a non thermal which has no spring. Thermal units work better.

If you install a filter, just run straight water for awhile till its finally cleaned a few times. That way you don't waste money on coolant.

Look for a cooling system filter that goes in line on the upper hose.