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Yesterday I sheared up a piece of aluminum for the vertical portion and a piece of 20ga steel for the firewall connection. Today after I positioned the base and clamped it to the rails, I started working on the filler from the base to the spacer. I also decided to roll over the edge of the...
So today I finished up shrinking the corner piece. From there, put it on the bench, clamped it down, got it tacked together. Once that was done, I checked the fit between the lid and base. I calculated correctly. I need to shear up a piece about 1 7/8" for the vertical part. But before I weld...
I did some calculations and measurements to see how much I needed to trim off of the base. 1/4" was what I came up with so out came the Makita shears. I've almost got one side of the corner piece shrunk to match up with the base.
Here is the tacked together results. I'm holding up a piece of scrap so you can see in general how the vertical side piece will fit to the lid. The other two pics are it resting in its soon to be home.
Today I finished off the corner piece after many easy steps through the shrinker. From there wire brushed the weld areas and wiped the two parts down with acetone. Cleared a spot off of my fab bench and got it tacked together.
if you end up wanting an oe hood.
1969 - 1970 Plymouth Roadrunner Air Grabber hoods -very good original - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive...
This thread has some great info. I see there are a couple of items to add to my arsenal. The corrosion cleaner and the tweezer tools. Back in the early 90's when the Challenger was out for paint, I had removed the engine bay harnesses for cleaning/retape/repairs. Since I didn't know any better...
It says on the site that is compatible with, of course theirs, other brands. You calibrate it on the bench first going through the procedure in the instructions. There may be a kicker about stock gauges not said but that may be a tech line question. I plan on using the cluster from AEM[ Holley...
Some years ago before we moved back up here, I worked at a shop doing the time and materials work. I got "blessed" with putting a 67 Camaro back together, I didn't take it apart, that had been to numerous shops over about a 10 year span. It used quite a bit of AM metal on it. When the paint shop...
Aftermarket metal is notorious for having fit issues. Same goes for newer vehicles when you hit the repair shop. Body lines, contours, fastener holes etc etc. At the body shop I managed some years ago, we stayed away from AM stuff because of fit and you don't get paid to make it fit. The best...
After flattening out the base some, I cut the lid portion out. Hit it with the SCT before the cuts so the surface is roughed up. Filed the cut edge some to true it up to the scribe lines. From there started running the corner piece through the shrinker/stretcher. Got a little happy with it in...