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I say that’s very possible, and appears to be a typo.

I will say this about this car and the seller. They have always had some very nice cars come through their shop, and I know they did good work. This car is undoubtably as solid as they say, and it would not be a disappointment to buy the car if someone could come to terms on it.

My personal opinion…..without the original drivetrain, the V code provenance is overplayed on this car. The black color helps , as it always does, and with the original drivetrain would make for one heck of a car. But you really can’t pay a premium for the V if it doesn’t have i.

Their shop was about 10 miles from my house. Something happened and they closed up and don’t do work on cars anymore. This and a few other cars were undoubtably part of their personal collection. They have been selling off their cars for about a year now, I would expect this is one of the last...

Didn’t those have both 6 bbl and 6 pak? That’s where the 12 pack was invented!

“You see, they have the Big Mac, we have the Big Mic, they have the Golden Arches, we have the Golden Arcs, we both have 2 all beef Pattie’s, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles and onions, but they use a sesame see bun, our bun has no seeds”!

No small bezel for that? Seems like there should be, there was one on my old 67 GTX, probably for that very reason.

That is the casting part number of the block. There should also be another casting number set on the opposite side of the block from those, it will be the casting date. Then, as mentioned above, there is a pad underneath the distributor hole with some stampings, for 1969 it will have an E as the...

In that case, take $4500, offer $3800, and be prepared to walk at $4500 all in. Unless you’re like me and you take a couple extra hundies, and go up to $4800….. “I have a little more, but that’s my gas money, I sure hope I make it home”!

Anything under $5k would be a good buy for you, not sure where she’s at on it but I would start at $3500

From what I understand, the “body tag” as it should be referred to as, will list options that need an alteration to the body, such as a radio. A radio needs an antenna, the antenna needs a hole in the fender, it’s on the body tag. Same with paint, it doesn’t need a hole, but it needs to be on...

593 is the code for 8 3/4”, 7290 Ujoint, 3:23 ratio, open rear end, 11” brakes

The firewall has been patched in where the A/C stuff would be on this car, so it’s not original to the car.

Not sure if I posted this here or not, but here is a picture of the Harlow Tire Daytona. Everybody in my area knew about this car, it sat in front of the tire store for decades. I hear it’s now been sold and maybe getting restored, but the gear heads in my area will always love it just like you...

I got home a little early on Wednesday, and my dirt road was almost dry, so I too fired up my 70 B5 car and took it out for a ride. It’s been a long winter, with nothing but the plow truck to drive. Not nearly as fun at the bird!

do you know what this means? Yes, it means my wife is right and I actually can be wrong!! Oh, the humanity!! Don’t let this get out please, or I’ll be ruined. Ruined, I say! Really tho, thanks for the clarification, I always appreciate good info. Sorry for the confusion, back to my cage now.

nope, that’s from 1970 literature. And, the 4:10 Dana was only available with the Super TrakPak A34 option, no other way to get it. You will not find the A34 callout on a Lynch Rd fender tag, but the upper 084 number designated the axle as a 4:10 Dana. As a matter of reference, the above car...

having a 4:10 Dana would be the A34 Super TrakPak axle package.

they are, but can be conquered with common sense, and some patience.

So, we’re going to change the VIN tag to that of a Roadrunner, but then Hemi swap in a new generation Hemi? The level of stupidity amazes me sometimes!