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It sounds like the Rooster Comb and the linkage are not set up quite right. If you have a FSM/Factory Service Manual, it will guide you through getting it set up correctly...cr8crshr/Bill:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::usflag::usflag::usflag:

I had to back of the adjusters a tad because I had them too tight causing a slight drag as I turned the axles. My explanation was the only way I knew of how to do so. I also know that the Green's don't require it as the Cone type do. And I will also add...I am just a shade tree kind of mechanic...

Those 3:55's I included should help as they are supposed to be OEM MOPAR. Just that I never really looked for any stamping to confirm that. I agree on 3:23's as they are great for just cruising and 3:55's also but with a little more punch around town. As the car came with originally with a 741...

Bill...In that file folder I gave you when you picked up the car, should be the receipt for the Sure Grip install and rear end re-build. I am not sure if I got it from West Coast Differentials or Randy's Ring and Pinion. The original set up for that Peg Leg was 2:76's and the ring and pinion...

When I had my 66 Ply Sat, original a 318, I replaced it with a 383 BB. I got new motor mount rubbers and the block plates, it it fit right in as the K-member is the same for the 318 and the BB's. Not sure about an RV 440 but I would think that it would also work. If not, maybe check with...

I got the parts...:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::usflag::usflag::usflag:cr8crshr/Tuck

Thanks Bro for the lead. The only thing I would change on your simple version is to place the priming pump closes to the fuel filter in the front rather than by the tank. I mounted mine to the frame rail and wired in a single throw toggle switch under the dash wired to a circuit bus I installed...

I thought the 5.9 was the 360 SB and the 5.6 is a 318 SB?????

I am running their Stealth Heads on a stock build 383 right out of the box. They have not been massaged as some have done and for the most part they are giving me good service. The next engine build I do will be a 440 that will be fairly tame by comparison to others here and will most likely use...

My engineering skills are limited when it comes to making my tools Meep Meep. That being said, with innovations such as yours that is how these Specialty Tools come about. Nice work there. Hopefully this thread can be 'archived" somehow as it has been a most informative one. Others here will...

Thanks Meep Meep for the further clarification. I have attached pics of the Miller Tools I have and are used for the bushing. The first pics are the removal tool, and the second is the burnishing tool. These really make the job a whole lot easier when removing and installing the bushing. Notice...

OK JB got it. Glad it was snug and not able to move. As stated, the burnishing actually expands the bushing hole that the oil pump shaft slips into and the gear then rides on top of it. And, until you get the distributor back in there will be an ever so slight side to side play between the...

Yep sure am JB. I will get pics up later for those interested. MeepMeep...That bushing should not be loose in the block. That is the purpose of the burnishing tool. It seats the bushing against the block hole it resides in causing it not to spin or turn. The distributor shaft spins inside the...

Another easy way to help you out is remove the distributor and observe the key way for the distributor as it turns in the block. The key way on BB's should run down the center of the engine and can be slightly off but pretty much in the center. On SB's it will point to the #1 cylinder at an...

Meep Meep...Quick question here. You said the shaft bushing in the block was loose and would move is that not correct? If so, and with your home made removal tool removing it, when you replaced with the new one, did you "burnish" the new one per spec in the FSM. This step is often over looked...

Tony...I have 3:91's in my '66 Ply Sat with a 383 T/F and they are really quick gears. I have yet to take it on a highway but I already know I want to change to 3:55's as I get rubber upon acceleration in first and second. 3:23's are great for cruising and give good gas mileage. The 2:94's also...

As 69a100 said. I also did the same to my 66 300 when I first started out in the Hobby. I also used the 516's on my 66 Ply Sat build/383 which turned out to be a nightmare. So I switched to the 440 Source Heads and have not looked back since. The 516's are good heads. Just not as popular as the...

Go to Summit Racing and get a K&N Filter for a Corvette. It is shallower than the one you have and will fit no problems. I had to do that on my 66 Ply Sat...cr8crshr/Tuck

I did the same on my 66 Ply Satellite/383 with HP Manifolds. Happy so far with the results. Only thing I would do differently now would be going with the 10 degree locks over the 7 degree locks that come with the heads. I like the stock look as well....

Another thing to consider is if you pull the Torque Converter with out d-coupling it from the flex plate that you will have a big mess with all the tranny fluid that is in the TC spilling out. And there is a lot of it too!!!!