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Thought about that one but specifically the manufacture of the Carb specifically states "To a Switched Ignition source" which I think does not include the POS side of the Alternator but I could be wrong...cr8crshr/Tuck

Just a quick one here...Where are those, that have them on their carbs, wire the Red wire to. I am currently running it at the positive side of my Ballast Resister...not spliced in which I am assuming is a Positive Ignition point, as specified by my Demon/Holly carb's instructions, and the...

Must be a latent GM or Chevy guy....:toothy6:

Times 3 for me too Cranky. Mostly it is found on cars that are from those climates that have extreme weather and use corrosive accelerates...Damn Salt...to melt the stuff. Z-Bart comes to mind as I grew up in Chicago and have some experience in adverse weather. But it can hide damage already...

Hell...Why not here on FBBO. Even MOPARTS for that matter????:yes::confused::confused:

X-3 Ski. 12 point is they way to go. Hex Head if you are going for the "restored OEM look." In fact a lot here would just reuse what came of originally...cr8crshr/Tuck

OK...I have to ask something here first you guys...Do either of you have a FSM...Factory Service Manual? That is the first thing to use when dealing with the removal and re-install of the torsion bars. It has all the tips and techniques for the proper way to do the job including getting and...

Me personally I am not a big fan of any of Comps offerings for MOPARs. I use only Hughes Cams and there Johnson manufactured lifters or a Rhodes lifter. Remember that most of Comps offerings now were originally milled and designed off of a Chevy ground Cam before they began to specifically offer...

Check the for sale forum. I have what you might want...http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?83663-NorCal-383-For-Sale... I am open to any and all offers. It needs to be gone...cr8crshr/Tuck

Normal for the bearing to come off the journal when you disassemble an engine. On your re-ring job 2 things: 1: Make sure that you stagger the ring gaps around the cylinder. If aligned up they will cause leakage and will not seat properly. Just an old tip. 2: While you are at it, try and clean...

Easiest solution for this would be to develop a disposable filter element capable of greater than 45 microns. Then at an oil change just throw away the old and in with the new. I do like the Billet look though I will stay with my WIX, FoMoCo, MOPAR or K&N for that matter...cr8crshr/Tuck

Or try this...Hit your local Hardware Store or Big Box Home Center and get some threaded rod and cut and make your own. I bought long chrome valve cover bolts and then cut to length threaded rod pices, a little thread locker and then an even torque on the bolts to hold the valve cover down...

Keep them. They can be re-conditioned and re-sized along with replacing the rod bolts with ARP's. I have done this on my 383 builds and they are really stout pieces. Unless a total replacement is part of the re-build then re-use them and save the $$$ you will spend on totally new ones for other...

Cr8crshr has been told by many engine builders Sonny that Synthetic Motor Oils are not the best way to go with these older rides. So I only use Brad Penn in my ride.

I just went through this with my ride. Turned out to be "Fuel Starvation". I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator in line after the Fuel Pump and it was dialed down too low. Increased it to almost full open and the stumbling and dying quit. If you are using one then give that a try. As for the Orange...

Or...You can find a BB K Frame for really quite reasonable pricing. Unbolt the old and bolt on the new...Just My 2 Cents...cr8crshr/Tuck

How about just not parking it where there might be a risk of it being stolen? Or if it home park it in the garage? I do like the Rotor trick or the Coil wire removal/swap trick but then in my Ol'*** way...CRS...I would forget it all together. Best bet though is what I have mentioned above. Just...

A complete re-wire is an added upgrade to promote longevity. M&H is the best with Evans being a very close second. Just Evans OC is IMHFO lax and poor at times. Relays also will help. But the best upgrade is to do the MAD electrical ammeter upgrade and by pass that weak link all together. Then...

So tell me this Sleepar...are you prepared for the inevitability as you say will come about? What have you done to prepare yourself and family for that demise. Got Gold? Got Silver? Got Food put away? Got Lead and the means to use it? Got a bug out plan in place? Do you systematically keep...

Me Too!!! I am genuinely concerned about this guy and his ramblings. Is it me or is it something else? He seems really incoherent pining for something in the past that is forever gone....I have to go back and re-read 99% of his posts as they don't make any sense?????