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Pete is a stand-up guy. Worked with him at the GM Tonawanda engine plant as engineers. He has worked on all different types of engines, knows his stuff. If he does not have the answer, he knows somebody the does.

Muscle motors are the low deck King pins. Give them a call.

You will be fine, the opening in the gasket provides for some clearance around the bore.

There are a few other items you will need, like a cam button "Mancini" sells a nice rollerized unit. You may want to consider one of the Indy or other billet timing chain covers to set the cam end play. Depending on the recommended springs you use, you may have to cut the spring seat. I know...

attached is a link that may lead you to an interesting cam for your combo. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=748&sb=2 check it out. Regards

Why not go with a mild solid roller in your setup? You are going to have to change the springs & retainers along with a bronze geared oil pump drive and new push rods etc. I use a comp solid roller in .630 lift range with their 829-16 (solid outer body lifters) on a street car and it works...

I have not had any problems with there stroker kit. Have not used there heads or other parts. Used 2 of there mech. distributors with out problems.

I have a Lakewood and its works fine with the OEM zbar, Hookers and mini starter. On my bell (20 + years old) they give you 2 threaded mounting points for the ball stud, i used the lower (rearward) position. The Zbar is still a PITA to get in and out. I usually get my son or a friend to help me...

They take the same gears, for 4.10s and up you have to change the carrier or use a ring gear spacer. All the ones i have seen use the 1350 size u-joints. I can sell you a set of 3.55s if your interested, send me a Pm.

That's to bad about Comp, I have used a few of their rollers and couple sets of lifters with good luck. Still using one now without any problems.

Go through the bottom end if you planning on full time Drag racing. Have your machine shop clean up the bores and install some current pistons to raise the compression when they freshen everything up. A good valve job and some pocket porting will help the 452 heads or do the home porting with...

if you had any backfires you may have damaged the power valve on the 850. Or the carb is to fat. I used to run a similar setup with 87 jets all around. Check your float levels, fuel pressure and idle mixture screw settings. You can try setting them at 1 1/2 turns out from the seated position as...

Try Koffels Place @ Koffels place.com, he invented the B1 series of heads.

Andrew, Those angled plugs are a pain. 2" and 1 7/8" Hookers dont fit on the passenger side, no. 2 plug is impossible to get to, drivers side is ok. You can modify them and get them to work. I am going to try a pair of Dougs with 2"dia tubes and i will post results, no.1 plug location looks to...

Used one in the past on a 6-pak and it worked great.

Andrew, you can get them all free on line. That build is very close to yours except for a the cam and rockers. They put together a lot of good b-body info on that project.

Andrew, i did a quick web search and found the info that will help you. here you go, its from 2004 and its a very similar build to yours, 616 hp. http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/Bold-Beeper.html

Hi Andrew, sounds like a good combo. I would double check the spring press required with the comp. roller. If its close to or higher than the 350lbs you will gall the rocker arms @ around 6 grand, did that myself. If your 6 pak is fresh i would try it as it is for a base line. Unless you dyno...

I would help you, but i got so much stuff going on I will be lucky to get my stuff done this year.

Hi 44070Dart, Call Todd at KTR Racing engines in Cheektowaga, he will be able to help you out. He does great machine work and has good pricing. 716-668-0903, good luck.