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Problem solved!!! It was the blue ecu module that I put on a few weeks ago. I didn't notice the starting problem till later, or it may not have started till a while after I swapped it out. Cranks and runs great now with the old orange ecu.. FINALLY!!!!! All the bugs are out.. The only problem...

No, just a cheapo harbor freight freebie multimeter. May have to find one of those. Like this one?>

The electrics of my toys has made me scratch my head for 60+ years. One problem on my 68 charger is that I rewired it myself a few years ago after rebuilding the car from junk. The under dash harness is original but most all else is new. The engine bay harness is an m&h conversion that upgrades...

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I had the same problem finding a source for my fans, since my batt is in trunk I came off the starter relay on the firewall. My fans run anytime I choose, with toggle switch under the dash. No time to work on mine today, maybe tomorrow.

This sounds like what the problem should be. Will check tomorrow.

Will check them again tomorrow, I'm tired and the motor's warm after my nice cruise this evening.

I agree and I did in the recent past, and don't know what has changed and caused this. I'm going to go over the wiring, bulkhead connector, etc more tomorrow... I went to another cruise-in tonight, about 20 miles away. It ran great and luckily cranked ok when I left. Still firing up as I let off...

I think that may be why I get close to the same voltage on them and everything acts the same with them swapped.

I keep thinking about the ballast and the blue wires on the right side of it. I'm wondering if they need to both be connected together to the bottom of the ballast. I don't think the one on top is going anywhere as is since the green/red wire ends up at the ecu as the unused 5th wire, no pin...

I'm getting 8.7v at the +coil during cranking. It is 3.7v with engine off and key on. And is 4.3v at idle and climbs maybe to a little over 11v with rpm.

I checked the voltage on the coil during cranking and it was ok. It is really strange the way this problem is acting. Will not hit a lick while starter is energized no matter how long it spins, let off the key and vrooom., crazy!

Guys I appreciate your enthusiasm but now my main problem is that my motor doesn't appear to be getting any fire during the cranking position of the old or new switch, then right as I let off the key it fires up.. I checked the connectors and cleaned the female spade connectors in the old...

I don't have that hooked up, I think I lost the oil press gauge, and turn signals. I could wiggle the harness near the key switch and it would remedy those. But the cranking problem is on going. I need to check volts at the coil while cranking, I bet it's 0, till I let off the key.

It seems I now have a problem with a bad connection at the key switch. I'm going to see if the big connector on the harness has some corrosion or a broken or loose wire. What is happening is it appears that my coil is not getting voltage during cranking, it fires up as soon as I let off the key...

I bought a new ign/key switch for my 68 charger and it has an extra male connector blade. It is the one marked grd and my stock harness connector plug has a slot for it but no grd wire. Do I need to add a ground wire to that male grd blade? I did installed the new switch already and it seems to...