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Actually, any carb, ignition, exhaust that has a "C.A.R.B." certification can be run. "California Air Research Board".

Is it for fuel injection or mechanical pump on carb? FI will flow a higher volume and psi and "possibly" cause a little aeration. If it's mechanical pump from carb, it'll trickle down fill tube to tank and be just fine.

Yes, as soon as you crack the throttle blades, MV n PV become the same. The MV will only be of benefit at idle depending on engine mods etc and cooler idling.

Engines idle very hot at the exhaust when under 15°-ish. Manifold vacuum at idle, depending on cam and many other variables can be very advantageous. As for dropping timing when accelerating, when you 1st apply throttle during a normal start from stop light etc, your vacuum as throttle blades...

There are a few people here who use "Sniper" and "Fitech". Other than programming, both are very similar. Buy you are going to get more info from a "Sniper" forum. I belong to a "Fitech" forum for those specific questiins.

I'm note sure what your feed line to the carb itself looks like. On my double pumper, I have 6AN inlet that feeds both bowls in sequence, then has a 6AN return after rear bowl. I put regulator after the rear bowl then return line to fuel tank. This reduces chances of fuel pressure "hammering"...

I've had nothing but good luck w Walbro. They are high pressure, so definitely best to regulate after bowls. Run in jet boat in 125° summers. 10yrs same pump, extreme vibrations on water. No issues and never garaged or covered, so it has always been in the elements.

Sorry for the incorrect info on spring on kickdown. It had been a bit since I looked at mine. Slide your kickdown inboard, place thin washer then clip in the center grooves. Spring in outer groove back to bracket. Front spring in-between the hoop on the throttle cable.

You need a spring on the front of the kickdown linkage also. I did it this way so all factory linkage worked.

@hunt2elk , low initial timing causes engine to run much hotter at idle, which in some instances leads to dieseling/run on when shutting off. Hooked to manifold, your timing goes up due to vacuum and reduces heat at idle. Just a thought.

+1 for -6AN, 3/8". I run it on my 610hp fuel injected 496, and carbed 700hp 4.6 turbo jet boat. No problems on either.

@IrwinTom , out of curiosity, why do you disagree with an inline filter w vapor separator such as the factory installed on many models. Reasoning or just don't like it?

If you can find some 425's, that'll be your best bet. CFM per HP is what it is. Smaller venturis increase air velocity through carb.

Well I have the best solution... I'm using a Progression Ignition Distributor. Fully programmable and "only" uses manifold vacuum. Problem solved.

Ported and manifold vacuum are the same once you crack the throttle and start to drive away. The ported source "gets" its vacuum "from" the manifold.

All "college" automotive classes teach what is being manufactured. By the 70's all were using port for emissions reasons. So by the time you or I started learning, the only thing taught was port. But, in a modified engine or engine not worrying about emissions, manifold vacuum can be very...

And it's "very" easy to "ask" what that person meant instead of "assuming" it was one of the 2 and calling them ignorant. Goes both ways.

Grammar is extremely important.

I started a similar thread a little over a yr ago. I still believe it's personal preference, but I believe manifold has a place absolutely.

I've run the Avenger 670 on a 4.6 (281 cubic inch) DOHC w carb adapter quite a few times and never rich right out the box. I usually get the Holley refurbished ones. Have done about 8 of those conversions, all w refurbed carbs. There's a reason they were sent back to Holley n refurbed.