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Harbor Freight has very strong magnets. Put one in the pan.

Have you run them?

I've got an Offenhauser "Dual Port 360" you can have for $50 plus shipping. It was designed for low end torque. I bought it for my 383 and then went an entirely different direction.

Yes, you are correct. I mixed up the 2. I'm going to edit, thanks. And the reason for smaller diameter pump n fewer blades for a/c water pump is cavitation. However I use 1.4:1 ratio w a Flowkooler high volume w/p but also use Water Wetter and have had no issues. But when keeping stock, I prefer...

It's simple math. Divide the diameter of your crank pulley by 0.95 and you get the diameter w/p pulley you need. Over cooling won't hurt either though. Divide crank pulley by 1.4 and that's the w/p pulley diameter used to cool a/c cars but with a 3.5" diameter w/p w 6 vanes.

If your crank pulley is 7", you will need a 7.25" w/p pulley to keep the 0.95:1 pulley ratio intended for non a/c 383's and a 4.38" diameter w/p w 8 vanes.

The retractable end "is" the male end on both driver n passenger side. The one you show looks identical to my driver bench seat one.

No problem. Thank you for getting back with me.

I've got this. Ordered it and a yr later was ready to finally install. Realized it was for a small block. They use same grind numbers but different stock numbers. New in box, never installed. Just have the cam. $150 plus shipping. I believe they are over $300 new.

Looking for a "good" lower (into the tank) filler tube for '67 Coronet. I had some rust on mine n like a dummy, used a flapper wheel to remove it. Now, even w new donut gasket, it leaks at the tank.

Here's a detailed article and I think these look easy enough and would provide better structural rigidity. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopars-big-power-need-subframe-connectors-heres/amp/