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Actually copper/brass radiator is more conductive than aluminum. However they do not have the structural strength to make the tubes in the core the same as the aluminum and the aluminum is cheaper.

You already bought it, but there is a reason 2 row is recommended. 4 rows have round tubes instead of oval, less surface area for cooling. 4 rows have a very dense core and by the time the airflow hits row 3 n 4 it's heated up enough that it becomes less effective. Don't get me wrong, on stock...

If no a/c, a 22" radiator is more than sufficient. I've never had a small block, and I've "Never" been a numbers matching guy, so I can't tell you if there is a difference between a small block and big block 22" radiator. Personally for ease and knowing it's good, I'd get a quality 2 row...

So your engine has 1,000hp and you drive it in 120° summer temps? As for e-fans, on 66-67 b bodies w big blocks, the shape of the flat square shroud and the front of the cars creates a high pressure zone behind the radiator restricting airflow at speeds over 40mph. At idle they actually work...

Mine was from Entropy, true 1.25" tubes w .25" space between the 2 rows making the core 2.75" thick. I am well aware of what they will cool. Most on here, over 98%, don't drive in temps over 105° n think that's hot. I'm assuming you are reading their web page propaganda. Kinda like all the e-fan...

Now back to reality. Is your car show quality? Do you drive it daily? You stated you were open to aluminum. Are you going to do a full restoration? Is money a consideration or have it to throw around? A modern 2 row, with 1.25" rows, aluminum from a reputable company, not ebay or Amazon, will be...

Why electric? Run 496" stroker, 610hp/670tq, in AZ w summer temps 120+. A/C vent temps 40 at idle n 36 cruising. Mechanical 19" fan w factory shroud. These cars were designed just fine even w high cubic inch high hp engines. Don't reinvent the wheel.

As above, all have O-rings and the newer, more chemical resistant, are green.

The best way to set electric fans is put in 180° t-stat, get engine warm, get on interstate/highway and turn fans off. Drive for 20 minutes at interstate speed and see where engine temp settles in at. You want your "fan off" temp 10° above that an "fan on" 10-15° above fan off. You don't want...

An aluminum 22" radiator w two 1.25" rows, will cool a 440 just fine if the supporting components are good. Depending on room between front of engine and the radiator, heavy duty fan clutch, 7 blade 18" fan, shroud, wire support in lower radiator hose, 180° t-stat, proper water pump pulley...

Sorry, I don't have any complete pics and right now everything is off while I'm pulling engine. Pretty basic though, Classic Air has the lines, dryer, condenser.

This is the factory orientation of my '67.

That gap is very minimal. I have aluminum radiator and 26" factory shroud. 19" 11 blade direct drive mechanic fan. At idle in the summer, it climbs as high as 220° in 125° ambient temps. That's idling for 10 minutes w a/c on. Still shows in normal range on factory gauge. I have metal duct tape...

Here ya go. 4.6 Ford Teksid all aluminum 4 valve. All forged bottom end, converted to carburetor w delrin plastic intake and blowthru turbo. Right at 700hp. Oil temps never over 190°. Air to water intercooler. 14lbs boost on 91 octane.

Definitely should, just been lazy. I run one in my aluminum block jet boat.

Well I'll revive this. '67 Coronet, 496" w a/c in AZ with summer temps "in" the 120's. Serpentine setup so had to go e-fans. Tried 3 setups. Over $500 each one. Spal fans on all. One had newer brushless fans. 1 had flat aluminum shroud with fans, other 2 had injection molded plastic shrouds. All...

My 160 stat held my 496 at 176 on the interstate in 125° temps w the a/c on at 3k rpm. That is due to a very efficient radiator, fan, water pump combo. I had to go to a 180 so it would run warmer. If a system wants to run at "X" temp without thermostat, it will run there if stat is lower. If...

This is incorrect, if the temp "runs away", then there is a radiator or air flow problem. A 180 or 195 will go up to whatever the radiator and airflow allow and stabilize. If the cooling system stabilizes below those temps, then the thermostats closes and brings temps back up. If it stabilizes...

Been using Water Wetter in my 496" w aluminum radiator for about 2 yrs. 1st yr, everything looked normal. 2nd yr, same. Broke a pushrod a couple weeks ago so I decided it was a good time to pull the engine for some upgrades and when I drained the radiator it was rusty. I was running 50/50...