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I've got Stealth heads on 383, no head clearance problems. My large aluminum valve covers needed to be dimpled a little, but I do believe he has changed the cap to resolve that issue.
If your RPM's were higher before to get to 65, then one of 2 things was happening. Manual transmission, clutch slipping. Automatic trans, torque converter slipping. Timing will have absolutely nothing to do w rpm at a speed. Trans final drive ratio, rear gears and tire diameter will determine...
I haven't dealt w any type of choke in many yrs. I honestly couldn't tell you. But you do want engine at operating temp and choke completely open when setting initial timing.
Are you setting timing w engine warm? Vacuum disconnected from distributor and plugged? At a set RPM? Vacuum leak can cause erratic timing. Different RPM can cause different timing. Just suggestions. Cold/warm, if you have a choke will also cause different RPM causing different timing.
@Charlie71rt please expound on why you disagree. If i am incorrect, i would like to know and correct it. If you do not know, then please refrain. But if you are going to disagree w someone's post, you should always explain yourself.
That depends on cam, gearing etc. You have to decide at what rpm you want all timing in by. Part of replacing springs. Softer springs, timing in quick, firm springs, timing in later.
You put in new springs. So did you disconnect your vacuum and plug it, then bring rpms up and see what your total mechanical timing was and at what rpm it comes in?
I'm going to "assume" you are using electronic ignition w a vacuum advance on it. You need a vacuum gauge to see what vacuum you are pulling at your cruising speed. Then, w car in park, put a vacuum pump on vacuum advance on distributor and pull a vacuum to your cars cruise vacuum and have rpm...
I have FI, 3 amps, and the rest factory accessories, a/c etc... 135 amp alternator. I used to have 2 e-fans also. I melted my fusible link due to amperage "draw". I could have redone all the wiring to starter relay w higher gauge and larger fusible link, but for me the easiest route was go...
The base on '68 and later antennas have a different angle and larger anchoring mechanism. The fender hole would need to be enlarged for one and it would lean at an angle. I took my '67 base and gutted it, then took apart a Ford Grenada antenna base and soldered in the screw in base from the...
Apparently some don't have sarcastic sense of humor. They do have "1" actual use though. Checking #1 TDC and 10° for FI controlled timing instead of drilling a hole.