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Not really familiar w "mass backing" but I'm thinking it's some kind of padded backing. If so, n it interferes w console etc, get it and cut the backing off where it interferes.

This is in the 66-67 Charger area, so I may be off a bit. On my 67 Coronet, ignition is stand alone. Doors and trunk use same key. Mine still have the original keys my Great Grandmother got w the car. As for @jmbass98 , if your door key doesn't open the trunk and you are positive you need to...

I run the RPM on my 383 stroker. I use a 3/8" spacer and a drop base aircleaner. I believe my aircleaner itself is 2" thick. I put some plumbers putty on top and gently close the hood without the spacer to see my clearance. Right now I have about 1/2" clearance from the wingnut I believe.

I can't even get a sealed coffee mug between my legs because the factory steering wheel in my '67 hits it. I pile up an old flannel shirt around the mug to my right to hold it in place.

A 295/60-15 will give the same Overall diameter as a 275/65-15, if you're also looking to fill the wheelwell.

I've only read of 275's fitting in the rear w a 5" custom backspacing. Largest I've ever heard for 66-67 without mini tubs. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/rear-wheel-max-tire-rim-size.229776/#post-912039598

I'm betting a 66-67 Charger.

As Cranky said above, larger oval tubes over more tubes. I have a 383/496 in Fort Mohave AZ, 125+ in the summer. 26" radiator, mechanical fan n factory shroud on 2 row aluminum radiator, each row 1.25". 180° t-stat. 174° on interstate, 195° in stop n go w a/c on. 222° sitting parked w a/c on for...

Replaced my wiper seals 2 yrs ago. They are cheap, but I had to remove my instrument cluster, a/c ductwork to get to the shafts.

I'm not against electric fans. They have a place n can work on high hp cars. "If" designed properly. A proper 2 row radiator will cost over 300. A "Good" fan setup w proper shroud will be around 300+. And then wiring. However, a factory 7 blade 18.5" fan, fan clutch w factory shroud w a water...

My 67 Coronet original 383, stroked 496 now. 19" fan, factory shroud and cools incredibly well in my 120° plus temps. A 440 will not sit in the engine bay any different than a 383. The only difference is deck height. A factory 7 blade fan is about 18.5" diameter and the factory shroud opening...

A 4 row aluminum will "NOT" cool as well as a 2 row. Why the desire to go electric fans?

Using factory mechanical pump w a vapor separator fuel filter solves vapor lock about 95+% of the time. Watch this video to get the correct type.

I installed everything from the firewall out w Original Air/Vintage Air and kept everything inside original. Used flush on the evaporator then blew air at 30 psi through evaporator for 30 minutes at a time for about a week, wrapping the openings w plastic between each session. I use electric...

This engine used a set of massaged Stealth heads and I'm using exact same heads, ported by same company, on a 496 stroker. Chrysler 383 Big-Block - Mopar For The Masses https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chrysler-383-big-block-mopar-for-the-masses/

Can't say anything bad about the Stealth heads. Out of the box, they'll flow better than any stock ported head. With port work down the road, easily support 600+ hp with the supporting engine mods. And you save a ton of weight. Win/win.