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Thank you, and it looks even easier than I thought by your pics.

I'm going to be removing my front bumper, '67 Coronet, to facilitate lifting front end to drop engine/trans/K-member assembly. Is it necessary to remove bumper guards and cushions 1st? Manual only says see Fig 12, 13 n 14 for attaching points, gives no further instructions.

I had an issue w a repop for my '67 about a yr ago. Measured the pipe diameter and got a Gates 90° hose rated for fuel and trimmed it to length. Used band clamps that are typically used on turbo boost hoses. No problems anymore.

When you are talking about RPM n gear ratios, you need the outside diameter of the tire, nor the inside. There are 24" to 30"+ outside diameter 15" tires. Saying you have 15" tires is useless in this thread. No one would understand how a 15" tire relates to RPM, it gives absolutely no reference.

You have 15" tires???? That's about the size of the tire on my wheelbarrow. You may have 15" rims an 26.5" tires.

I'm not sure what tire diameter you are running, but w a 26.5" tire and 3.25 gears on a 1:1 drive ratio 60mph is 2,500 rpm. For 3,600 at 60 mph on a 1:1 final drive w 3.25's would be an 18" diameter tire. Get a better shop that knows how to use an RPM calculator. I posted a link earlier that is...

Got it in today and installed. Works good!

Yes, wish they would, and believe it or not, our heads are mounted on our necks which rotate. Like shooting guns, "press checks are free", driving "head checks are free".

I've still got manual disc's.

I've had an issue w my front disc conversion in the past. Would have high/tight pedal after initial bleeding, then over time, it would get a little spongy n I'd pump n they'd be good for awhile. Never really saw a difference in fluid level. Installed front n rear residual pressure valves and...

They have a gasket but no backing plate. Looks like just 1 stud w nut and 1 screw. Not a fan of 2 point mounts. Would you recommend a very large fender washer inside the door to support from rocking/flexing?

Ya, I read a lot of posts in my search about placement. Common opinion is just like driver, will look at it through wing window. And those that were factory station wagons confirmed identical to driver side placement. Thanks for the pics

I believe I found my answer. Apparently there were different types. Mine has a remote driver w fin down the back. I guess the non-remote driver didn't have the fin. Thanks for the quick replies.

Does anyone make a RH non-remote mirror for '67 Coronet 440? I'm sure it would be the exact same as on station wagon and tow package. I'm doing a lot of towing my boat to the river and backing down is very difficult only seeing out of driver side and almost impossible in the dark. I found 2 on...

2.76:1 w no OD is 2,300 at 65. That is what mine came w factory. I have a GV OD w 3.73 now and it's 2,400 at 65. My area interstate is 75, I'm 3,000 at 80 on the interstate. Use this site to figure what you want. Speed/Tire/RPM calculator

The brass block w 2 lines in, front and rear, and 3 lines out, left/right front and single rear to the rear "T"? Dr Diff has them.

And my reply, if you read it, says that the 26" radiator would have 22" of "direct air flow", hence 22" core opening.

As @Aron Gleason said above, you can get a special bracket. No, it will not change the core support opening to 26". Direct airflow will cross 22" and there will still be some additional cooling effect by the covered 4". On the '67 383 2V cars, no a/c had 22" and a/c cars had 26".

'67 is a Unicorn

Be careful w that upper vent tube. I've seen them crack the solder joint where it goes into the tank while trying to wiggle on the hose. Lots of WD-40!!!