Search results for query: *

do you have a pinion snubber on the car? The rear axle may be torqueing/twisting up to much under acceleration and breaking the ujoint that way. I have had a couple of 500 inch motors in HP street cars and have never broken a joint...just be sure you have the bigger of the two u-joints mopar...

Not really sure that is true....I believe I have seen solid lifters that had internal pieces and filled with oil to make them solids.....I am sure someone out there has more knowledge than I do tho...waiting for someone smarter than I to chime in...

I turned mine down to the bigger of the two standard sizes that mopar used.....mine was behind a small block but I had a lakewood bellhousing, which had the bigger mopar hole...would be easy to have a machine shop bore out the hole in the factory bellhousing to the 5.125 hole size

I have had a hemi and a 440 with a Maltese cross on the ID pad.......the both had not standard size rod bearings...I think Chrysler used those on cranks they screwed up.

I have turned down the big front bearing retainer to fit in a regular bellhousing....but the gear ratios in the tranny are not ideal...never have broke one tho...

No sir...sold it a while back...Thanks

They also made factory RB 383 engines.....had one in a 60 Chrysler when i was a youngster....put a 440 4 bbl intake on it!

Ya.... I can relate to that...had a 66 coronet hemi 4 speed car...living in Wisconsin and going to college in the 60's...the Dana sure grip was great in the snow...but a real handfull on icy roads

B & M makes a externally balanced flex plate that lets you run your normal neutral balanced torque converter on an externally balanced engine, and if its a stick car Quick Time makes a balance weight that goes on the end of the crankshaft before you put the flywheel on that gives the correct...

My 66 Hemi Coronet had the maltese cross and the rod bearings were .001's

If one shift lever is up, and one is down it is definitely an overdrive type 833...I have seen them in a few old suburbans and chevy pickups

Just ran into the same problem on my 65 Coronet...replaced the 727 auto with a 4-speed. Crankshaft was not drilled for a standard trans...use the big pilot bearing in the converter area at the end of the driveshaft, cut and tapered the input shaft...and i was out crusin with the four speed...

I did not take out the engine......I made a bolt in ball stud bracket like the factory used on the frame side and just screwed in the ball stud on the engine side.....I have a hoist in my garage so that makes things a bit easier...

Recently did the same conversion on my 65 Coronet.....it was an externally balanced 440 with no pilot bearing hole. I used the bearing that required cutting off the end of the trans input shaft, and used a balanced flywheel that I had with a balance plate from Quicktime ....The balance plate...

Yes....mine were the taller of the two 440 pistons, and just a stock type piston....not a race piston...pressed on rod. I bought mine from Sealed Power in a rebuild kit...sounds like the same pistons. car runs great on regular or mid-grade gasoline. go for it!!!

I put 75cc Estreet heads on my 440 for the same reason...needed to raise the compression on a motorhome 440 in my altered wheelbase street car...pistons were almost .180 down in the hole. I used early 440 sealed power forged pistons which had a taller compression height, and stock type mopar...

I have three mopar motors, two 440's and a 408 small block have aluminum edelbrock heads on all of them.....one 440 has the edelbrock ez street 75cc heads...they work great as long as you have flat top pistons in the motor. They actually raise the compression ratio from the 906 heads, which is...

Have tried all the so called fixes...ran out of patience...am installing a four speed as we speak...will be more fun to drive anyway...

Clean them with wax and grease remover and I agree on the clearcoat if you want them to stay decent looking....