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Shimming might not always do what you want. Specific to mine at least, low rpm psi needed a lot of help and the hv pump does that without a corresponding increase on cold start and higher rpm. For example mine was running as low as 12psi at hot idle but 80psi on cold start up with std pump. I...

I didn't build it. Psi was just fine but the pump body itself starting leaking externally. I thought the same things dog did so I bought a std pump. Intentional or not, the engine needs the hv at low rpm for pressure.

I found this out the hard way as well when I replaced an hv with std without thinking much of it. My warm psi is much worse than you report. I put an hv back on it and we'll see how it is this weekend

What mufflers do you have? Only during accel? When going straight or turning?

I can't remember the exact modification I had to do but when installing the older 'Magnum' mounts into oem brackets I did have to alter things as well. I also had to grind on a gen III hemi conversion mount set.

Full transparency - this is a spare unit I will be unlikely to use so I want to make it as valuable as I can for others - and if offering some of the later 833 parts with it does that, then Yahtzee. So far no one is actually answering the question I asked :thumbsup:

those are good ideas - I also have a pile of parts from later 833's so I'm asking about doing it that way.

Is it just the output shaft and the tail housing?

At 10-12psi hot idle, no thank you

Yes many better cam options, I would not have done this but the charger was my dad's and he was afraid of a solid cam and checking lash.

I have the 484 hydraulic, 28" tires and 4.10 with my tko and the tall OD kinda sucks under 70mph yet I'm screaming in 4th at 65.

My brother has Doug's on a 440 with a mini

On my 383/a500 setup I had to grind the starter case a bit but that's obviously a custom setup I think I had to cut the big lug shorter on a different car once as well. They fit but sometimes you need a little nip or tuck.

I agree you're on the right track. Cold start up video at the tailpipe to show no smoke on start up.

Just be careful your final drive ratio in od. Modern engines love loping along at 1400rpm, snotty cammed bb's don't

Spin that sucker to 6000. No reason to keep it at 5000 or 5200. With the iron lung it'll still be pulling. Kickdown adjustment from OEM to raise shift points and create deceleration downshift, never to create earlier shift as u now know.

Me too. Seems to convert a mechanical tach drive to electrical signal

Google did find it and talked about the GM guts and cap, which this one has

I got this one too that's still together

No guts and Google doesn't find much. I don't know much about tach drive stuff, the sun thing converts to elec signal?