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There's supposed to be a ground strap that goes from the sending unit to the fuel line. If it's missing, for testing you can make a ground wire from the sending unit to any good ground.
There is a product called "Meter Match" it is put in line with the sending unit wire. Plus power, and ground. It lets you set 4 points on the gauge. So I set Empty, 1/4, 3/4, and full. Works way better than just the repop sending unit. Spent a couple years trying to find a stock A body sending...
Could be timing. It should be optimized before getting too involved in the carb. IMO, Eddy's are for a mostly stock engine. Holley, and their variants have alot of parts, and customer support. Some have glass sights to check fuel level. They come in many varieties, to fit many different...
Hoping this will help. My car ran fine with a 750 race Demon for years. A few weeks ago, I drove it around, came home, parked in front of the garage. When I went to pull the car in the garage, it wouldn't stay running. Popped, and backfired. Rebuilt the carb. Cleaned everything, and put in a new...
That is not an adapter. It is a thick gasket for preventing heat soaking the carb. There is a cheap flat plate to adapt that carb to your manifold. I would try that first before replacing the carb. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2732/overview/
That carb is dirty. Dirt is your carbs enemy. After cleaning, inside and out, try resetting your timing, Adjust air mixture screws to highest rpm/vacuum. reconnect the vacuum advance, and see how it runs. a lot of times, it's the little things that make all the difference.
I would change the manifold if going to a Holley. Back in the day, I built an engine with the stock spread bore manifold, adapter, and a Holley. Never could get it to run well. I put on an Edelbrock manifold, and with just minor carb adjustments, it ran great. My theory is the manifold mismatch...
Try looking in the carb when it stalls. See if you see fuel dripping into the intake. If so, it's probably flooding. If you don't see fuel, pump the throttle, while looking in the carb. No fuel, that's where to start.
Also, no one mentioned adjusting the fuel/air screws. When idling, turn...
See that lever with the adjusting screw, and mounted by the Phillips head screw that your pointer it pointing at? It goes in between the two halves of the lever to put tension on the adjuster.
I have one of those electric pumps with a mechanical pump on my Dart. I tried all the other stuff, (spacers, wrapping the fuel lines). All helped. I wired the pump with a momentary switch. Turn the key to on, hold button until I hear the sound change, and pump a couple times since you still need...
Look at where the fuel line runs along the frame rail near the engine. My Dart it seems to run close to the exhaust. I put a heat sleeve on it. Seems to help.
I put a quick fuel carb on my car,and am very happy with it. Price was good too. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock carbs. For me, they work great, or F with you till you put something else on. JMO.
I think the idea behind the tube is to equalize the venting to atmosphere. Never seen that done before. When I clean a carb, i use tooth brushes and carb cleaner. Wire wheel will help, but you need to be careful. Lots for the wire wheel to grab, and yank out of your hand. Those gallon carb...
I rebuilt the AVS on my 69 340. My accelerator pump wasn't squirting properly. Opened it up, and the seal on the accelerator pump was all shriveled up. Put the old one back in.works fine. Probably cheap Chinese part in the rebuild kit.