Search results for query: *

Top looks like 65 Satellite Bottom looks like a 65 Fury.

Joe Suchy sells these

I wet sand them. Depending if the scratch won't buff out. Only use the least aggressive sandpaper needed to do the job. The dust thrown off is not the best thing to breathe. Wear safety glasses. Thick gloves. Buff on the bottom of the wheel, so it pulls away from you. Have a good grip on the...

:popcorn:

This is how it should be done.

I would section it in, after I went over the original frame rail with a pointed body hammer to find thin spots

I am now set up for PayPal if someone is interested. Thanks.

I have two 67 GTX /Satellite trunk finish panels. Both are in good shape. $100 each. also 2 67 Belvedere trunk finish panels. Good shape. $80 each. Pay with postal money order.Must be a member of this site for several years. all items, plus shipping. Thanks

That car is too nice to cheap out on. Take it to a paintless guy who knows what he's doing. If that doesn't work, take it to a body man. You beating on the roof will stretch the metal, and make it way worse than it is. Nothing is cheap on classic cars.

Sorry, but the hoods do not interchange. Front is completely different. The trunk also is different. Look at the back of Darter6s car. There's a piece of trim across the back on the 64. 65 doesn't have it. Also , the cutouts on the trunk for the tail lights.

Maybe you should contact Joe Suchy. He specializes in 62-65 B bodies. Maybe he knows a source.

https://www.metrommp.com/pages/Manufacturing/06_SUPERsoftSponge.html Try these guys. They claim to be "super soft".

If it were me, i would do it with the car on the ground, drivetrain still installed. That way, you have all the normal bends, an twists that any normal car does. If the floor is gone, i would replace that first, or as said, brace the body, since you will get some movement when you remove the...

I would agree about the A pillars. Plus, there's multiple layers that you won't be able to get to. And you better make sure it's square, or it will leak, or glass might not fit. Drilling out the spot welds sucks, but you will be able to keep the car squared. Just patch the structure, after...

Wear a mask. It's nasty stuff, whether you grind it, or melt it.

The foam would cause water retention.

A bolt on style hood scoop will save you a whole bunch of headaches.

Since the hood, and the scoop are both steel, their expansion rates are similar, and so you shouldn't be concerned with a small amount of bondo cracking, like a fiberglass scoop would. The big issue is warping the hood, or scoop, or both during welding. You need to make tack welds. No beads...

Been here before. There's annodising stripper I've bought at car show swap meets. it a white powder in a plastic jar. Also heard original style oven cleaner will do it. After it's stripped, you will need to polish it. Once you start, you will need to keep going since they won't match. Joe Suchy...

Sorry to disagree, but Do Not try to run a bead on that quarter. You'll be sorry. The smaller wire is reccomended by a lot of guys, but I use .030 for everything. The way Eldubb440 said to do it is the correct way. Keep a small flatblade screwdriver with you. Sometimes when you cut, the edges...