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I have an old MSD 6 that was given to me back around 1999 from a friend that had it on his car for years. I have an add on rev limiter. Still working fine.
I am using a Dakota starter for 20 years. I did have casting flash that needed to be ground down. I have been thinking about that adapter that moves the terminals, but, it ain't broke, so......
The wires look wrong. The way your picture is, it doesn't look right. The wire on the right is power. The wire 2nd from the right is ground. 3rd from right is to gauge. 4th from right is from the sending unit. The one all the way to the left is for an alarm. If you still have the old style IVR...
I have one in my 69 Dart. The first one worked great. then I accidently grounded it, and killed it. My fault. I told them what happened, and they sent me another for free. Works fine. The people there are very helpful. Threewood should call them up, and see if they will replace it.
I agree with this. The voltage limiter can be bad. I have found that the gauges in late 60's Mopars are not the best quality. Went through 3 temp gauges on my Dart to find one good one.
I agree. No need to tear everything out. First, MSD needs a full 12 volts. Bypass the balast resistor. Then, if it doesn't start, look at timing and firing order. That is where I found issues when the engine backfires through the carb.
I agree with the big loop statement. That line from the tank should always be at, or below the outlet on the tank. Also, if you ran the pump for any length of time without fuel, it's possibly burned up.
I did this on my 69 Dart. The connector is down on the column. I cut all the old wires off from the connector, leaving enough wire sticking out of the connector, so I could see the wire colors. Installed the new switch assembly, then used needle nose pliers to squeeze the pins in the connector...
Make sure every ground point is on clean metal. It needs to be right, not just enough. Also, see what the alternator is putting out in volts. Multi meter on volts, with red meter wire to large alternator lug. Black meter wire to ground. You need to find out if the alternator is putting out. If...
I scrubbed the bulkhead contacts with a wire brush, and sprayed with contact cleaner. Then used dielectric grease to keep moisture out. Then use a star washer, and clean paint off grounding surfaces. Also, i ran a ground wire from the regulator to the engine.
Have you made sure rhe regulator is grounding to bare metal? Sand the back of the mounting bracket, and the firewall. Also, run a nice sized ground wire from the engine, to the regulator mounting bracket using star washers. These cars are sensitive to good grounds.
You need to check all connections. Especially grounds,adding some won't hurt. Check all connections. Especially the bulkhead connector. Repair anything not up to standards. I had a battery explode, blowing acid all over the hood. Dripped on my new jean jacket as I looked underhood. Be careful.
There are two wires coming from the ignition should be brown and blue. The would normally go to the ballast resister.one is start, one is run. Connect both to the MSD wire. Don't use the ballast resistor.
Your motion for removing the gear/oil pump drive shaft should be up as well as rotating. I use a pair of long needle nose pliers. Pulling up and turning at the same time. Could it be possible you are turning it the wrong way?
A problem I had with my 69 Dart, was there was corrosion you couldn't see on the back of the dash studs that the pal nuts screw onto. Cleaned them off, and put regular nuts on them, and my gauges worked fine. I also added a ground to the dash, just to be sure.
The float level should be in the middle of the glass sight. At the bottom is for old style Holley carbs with the sight plug that has to be removed to set the level. I also agree that it's most likely a fuel delivery issue when a car noses over at the top of the higher gears. But,you need to have...