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I bought the Eastwood set a number of years ago. Its served my purposes. But it all boils down to how much sheet metal work you plan to do, that will ultimately determine what you need. One thing I did buy that doesn't get much use but has been well worth the investment is a pair of shrink...

Here's my 2 cents ... 1) keep it simple - its doesn't need all sorts of brackets, attachments, etc - you'll likely use it once then toss it out back of your shop to rot. If it takes more than an hour to build then its too elaborate. 2) make it hold the engine as high as possible - particularly...

Wiring problems ??? Not if you did it right !!! Anyhow, my vote goes to Roxul. Its a little more money but worth it in my opinion. Don't forget the vapor barrier !!

LOL !! Keep in mind they want to sell you product !!

I've used old 2k primer and paint with no problems.. None that ever "froze" though but its solvent based not water so I doubt that would hurt it (what's the freezing point of solvent ???). I usually take the can to a local Home Hardware (those folks are more friendly!) and ask them to put it in...

If you Google "Tweco liner" they all show that brass end I was referring to. And they all go in from the machine end. Take your whole whip off and take it in to a welding supply and let them have a look at it. Keep in mind there is a very short piece of liner that's used in the machine to...

If you haven't used it in a while and depending on the environment its in it could very well have rusted inside. Rust is common in seldom-used migs. That still doesn't account for the liner itself being stuck. What brand is the unit ?

Usually the liner has a brass end on it. The liner slides in from the welder end and you clip off the excess at the gun end. The end with the fitting is part of the conductor but also forms the gas seal. the bare end is the gun end.

It pulls out from the box end. You have to take the whip out of its socket in the box then pull the liner out from that end - right??

4-posts are for storage, 2-posts are for working.

Voltage doesn't matter - ALL LEDs run on low voltage, the transformer is either internal or external. The nice thing about the external box is that electrical codes accept these instead of having to install octagon boxes. And should a light ever burn out, get damaged, etc they're a breeze to change.

flush-mount gimbal LEDs - lots of them !! Dirt cheap, bright light, low energy consumption, virtually indestructable (unlike a florescent bulb when you hit it) These things ... dirt cheap online !!

Sent you a PM

What is the material its made of and what is the final finish like ?

Keep in mind that the high cost or a "pro" job will often include blasting or grinding of the surface as part of the prep. This is well worth the extra cost. And also keep in mind the "pro" job comes with a warranty !

1) the drill press doesn't run fast enough 2) you won't be able to control the piece by hand 3) due to the height of the side wall a router is pretty much out of the question 4) good luck !!

From personal experience, that bit will do just fine. The twisted flute is the way to go but make sure the flute will pull the chips UP. They are available with flutes going either way.

Well I personally would prefer a CNC mill ... but it doesn't sound like that's in the OP's budget !!!!!

1/4" bit is just fine. Too big of a bit might present a problem because of the distance between the flutes or cutting edges. Be interested to see what you're actually working on. I once gasket matched an intake manifold with a carbide burr in a router !!

Drill presses usually don't run true enough to do anything without some sort of guide or pilot.