Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
"Maybe tighten the bolt"
He can't ... its a wratchet wrench - it has to be flipped over to turn the other way.
Losen the rest of them off so the header moves away from the head - use an "old fashion" wrench this time !!!
This is not a thread sealant - although it might work. But I hate using silicone anywhere on an engine! For intake or header bolts you absolutely want teflon thread sealant. One reason is it doesn't break and crumble when you remove the bolts at a later date. Particularly important on intake...
The problem with studs is the wrench needed to tighten the nuts won't fit between the tubes and nuts. Header bolts have a smaller head - allowing wrenches and sockets to fit.
Back in the '80's there was a local guy fooling around with turbos. He was using stock iron manifolds and they were melting. Good luck with anything short of stainless.
I'd be more concerned about the thickness of the tubing than whether its 409 or whatever. Very few restos or modifieds use stainless and I don't hear many complaints. But the thickness will certainly have an impact of the noise level as well as the strength and how long the hanger brackets last...
I've heard filling them with muriatic acid is a hot trick used by FAST guys. Extrude hone would probably be a very expensive proposition.
I think the trick would be to block the head flanges and fill with water and measure the volume. Then do the acid thing and then compare.
Even if you don't...