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I never have seen them aftermarket, from any vendor(s) on the internet. My old ones were from back in the days, when these old cars were still find able at the Pick-N-Pull wrecking yards.

I used to have lots of them for sale. But no more. All gone.

Inline Tube has lots of stuff, but wouldn't know if they have what your lookin for.

KELSEY HAYES, A body calipers are the ones that have the seal in the top of the bore. BENDIX, B body calipers are the ones that have the seal, on the piston themselves. That's why BENDIX calipers need to be sleeved if the bores are pitted to holy hell.

Spindles get swapped over when changing over to different calipers. (Here's what factory 66-69 B body disc brake spindles look like.)

Remanufactured front disc brakes caliper for 1966-69 Plymouth Belvedere - GTX - RoadRunner - Satellite and Dodge Charger - Coronet - SuperBee Wow, holy S*#T, look at the price for Bendix calipers on this site. They appear to be available. They better to be sleeved in the caliper bores at that...

Ya, what do you mean by "older fluids" and "newer fluids" anyway? I never heard of that before, and i used to wrench on cars and trucks professionally, to earn my living as a mechanic. Are you thinking in regards to silicone fluid, or something like that?

What exactly do you mean by "rebuilt"? Did you get the caliper bores sleeved? If you didn't and the bores are pitted, the piston seals aren't going to seal up, and they will be leakers. Sad to say, but it's just the way it is, with the seal, on the piston itself.

Those Cardone's are as good as your going to get, in this day and age. If you know where are pair of them are, i think you'd better get them, while you can.

Well, my opinion would be to convert your car with disc brakes from the 73-76 A body line of cars. Or even the Aspen, Volare, cars. Don't know how easy it is to source donor cars, up there in your part of the world, for needed parts, but those cars aren't that difficult to find. If you had to...

NEW, upper control arms never have threads in them. They are manufactured bare, smooth. The ball joint, to be inserted in the UCA, cuts the threads. Then forever, and ever, that control arm will have the "threads" that a replacement ball joint should follow, in tightening down. If not, just tack...

You got any wrecking yards close to you that still has old cars in them? Go there. You gotta drive to a hardware store, or wrecking yard anyway, so what's the difference where you go?

You got those "anti rattle" shims on the back side of the pads too, adding to the total thickness of those brake pads, that you now have to also take into account for. Get out the sheet of sanding paper, on a flat surface, and sand down to fit. Your making a big mountain out of a little mole hill.

Lots of times when replacing with new rotors, new calipers, and new brake pads, things don't go back together without sanding down the brake pads to get everything to fit properly. Get yourself a sheet of 80 grit sand paper, and sand down on the pads until you get the clearances that you need...

Very simple question to answer. On the 1970 to 72 cars, the sway bar mount tab is welded pretty much onto the center of the control arm. The mount tab is a different design. The 70-72 sway bar was essentially a different design.

Your lower control arms with those sway bar tabs on them are for 1966-69 B body cars. Lower control arms without tabs on them will be used on 1962-72 cars. You can try and surgically remove the tab on the bent LCA and re weld it onto a non sway bar tabbed LCA. But believe me, it's quite tedious...

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Don't remember if I've ever used that tool other than busting ball joints loose on wrecking yard cars. But ya, I'm pretty sure that you can position the tool under the bottom lip of the grease boot, and then wrench away, turning the big bolt.

I'v got that tool. Picture in post #8.

As previously stated, a big f*#@+#g hammer whacking the side of the spindle numerous times will most likely get the stud out of the spindle. But there are tools to get the job done, too. 1. A pickle fork. 2. An Official "Miller Special Tools" separator from back in the dinosaur days. I'm sure...