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Wouldn't a Gear Vendors be an easier and less expensive option?

I battled this exact problem a couple months ago....vacuum leak! My leak was between a carb spacer and the intake. Sealed it up and the problem completely went away. here is a link to my thread on the issue. Problem/symptoms/solution found!

On my 69 RR w/out power brakes, I did not need to jack up the engine, but I may have had more room without the brake booster

For me, the tricky bolts were the manifold collector to the tail pipe. I found the right tool for these bolts was a offset distributor clamp wrench. With this wrench, I could reach both the top of the bolt and the nut from under the car.

Can you identify where it was leaking? From the perimeter of the pump housing or from where the shaft goes through it? Having just gone through this, it could be one of a couple of things to try first to avoid a full rebuild. If it is coming from the shaft, it could be as easy as the shaft...

Tuning issues seem to be sorted out. Off to the track on Sunday to let it eat!

I have used fluorescent dyes to find leaks the engine, trans, and power steering a couple of times. Works great and shows you exactly where the leak is originating.

Here are before and after pics of my engine compartment. Since this is (mostly) a race car, there are no heater hoses or wiper motor to contend with. Also no turn signals. When I rewired, I moved the starter solenoid to the inside of the firewall, wiring for the headlights, fans, and water...

That is probably a question best asked to Lunati's tech support.

Here is a link to all of the torque specs you will need. Mopar Bolt Torque Specifications – Big Block Check out the Pete's Garage Youtube channel. He does a series on a build for a 440. Check out the vids on the cam install. Even though you are building a 400, not a 440, most of the info...

From my conversation with Comp tech (and advice from this forum), a shorter duration cam would be beneficial for my application since I am only running 10.5:1 compression. I am guessing the high lift with short duration is one of the benefits of a roller. My cranking pressure went from 118psi...

Here is the cam card. This is predominately a NSS race car that sees some, but limited street use. Note....there is a 4-7 firing order swap. I still need to clean up the plug wires as they are a bit of a mess now.

The radiator came out, but there was enough room that the grill didn't need to come out. 64 Dodge 330.

I thought I would create of post of the saga of the cam swap in my 512. I am, by no means, an expert mechanic. This was the first time I have ever completed a cam swap. So for all you other beginner wrenches out there...this is how I did it. First, I watched the complete series on You Tube...

My plan for inserting the bolds is to magnetize my Allen Socket by rubbing on a magnet. If that doesn't hold the bolt, I will try your paper towel trick.

Well isn't that convenient.

I am in the reassembly phase of my cam swap. When taking things apart, I did not realize the intake manifold bolts are all different lengths. I know the shortest bolts go on the ends (as shown in the pic), what is the order that the different length bolts in the manifold?

I'd rather ask a stupid question than make a stupid mistake. Tonight I am going to be reinstalling my rocker shafts on my 440 following a cam swap. I was very careful when removing the shafts (with rocker arms, shims in place) to place them in a manner in which I can put them back on the studs...

Is it acceptable? Changing from a solid flat tappet cam to a solid roller cam. Not changing rocker arms. I used an adjustable pushrod checker to verify length and there would be no change in length for the new pushrods. Is it ok to reuse the ones I have. This is a low mile engine...